Exploring the British Columbian Archipelago’s Most Remote Sacred Site By Marc Cappelletti I am walking in the footsteps of chiefs and carvers, warriors and weavers, shamans and slaves; people as connected to the land as the very trees from which they once made their homes. The ground is soft. It is sacred. And it lies at the edge of the world—Haida Gwaii, British Columbia. We are at the ancient village of SGang Gwaay Llnagaay, formerly known as Nan sdins or Ninstints, on the eastern edge of SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island).
When we, as Canadians, talk about our whole country, we say “from coast to coast to coast.” The three coasts feel very different underfoot. In the west, deep moss makes a trail that feels like walking over sofa cushions; in the east, long grasses swish and slap against your boots; and up north rocks and rivulets form tiled patterns over the permafrost. It was the west coast that convinced me to start working at sea.
Newfoundland’s Gros Morne National Park is one of the few places where you can walk on the Earth’s mantle and also cruise glacially carved freshwater fjords.
In this episode of Expedition Spotlight, join Cultural Specialist Susan Flanagan as she reveals what discoveries are in store on our Canadian Maritimes and Newfoundland expedition.
Our visit to Walla Walla, Washington at the confluence of the Columbia and Snake Rivers did not disappoint. The region offers a bevy of activities. Everything from historical sites and museums to ice cream shops and wineries. Guests of National Geographic Sea Bird chose to learn about the region’s history of the Cayuse people at Whitman Mission, sampled wines from local vineyards and tasting rooms, and explored the lively downtown of Walla Walla with its many coffee shops, bookstores, and ice cream parlors.
We enjoyed a day at sea aboard National Geographic Orion. As we transited the south Caribbean Sea, we were treated to a few presentations about Colombia, reef fish, and music of the region, but the real stars of the day were the masked and brown boobies hunting flying fish. There were spectacular displays of hunting from the birds and avoidance by the fish.
We arrived at the north of Santa Cruz Island, and we witnessed that there had been heavy rains in recent days, leaving this part of the island covered in green. It was like an artist’s palette, with all the shades of green captured in this amazing landscape.
After breakfast, we set off for Minas de Azufre located on the slopes of Sierra Negra Volcano, one of the most active volcanoes in the Galápagos Archipelago. The hike to the sulfur mines took us through a dramatic landscape of volcanic terrain, and the trail was lined with native vegetation. The sulfur mines reminded us that we were walking in an active volcano that last erupted in 2018. The smell of sulfur in the air was pungent, and the contrast of the black volcanic rock with the bright yellow sulfur deposits created a striking landscape.
After breakfast, we set out for Urbina Bay, located on the western side of Isabela Island. Just a few meters from the shore, we encountered several giant tortoises resting in rainwater pools left by the downpour from the night before. The rainy season is truly a blessing for all terrestrial animals, and the tortoises are no exception, taking advantage of the fresh water and lush vegetation. In the afternoon, we navigated north toward Punta Vicente Roca. At 2:15 PM, we embarked on an unforgettable snorkeling experience along the island’s coastal cliffs. We had the incredible opportunity to swim alongside playful sea lions, Galápagos penguins, flightless cormorants, and sea turtles. Our final excursion of the day was a panga ride around Ecuador Volcano. This outing turned into a unique adventure as an unexpected rain shower added a special touch to the experience. Our guests donned ponchos and embraced the moment, making the ride even more memorable as we explored this remote and stunning landscape. Just before 6:00 PM, we marked a significant milestone, crossing the Equator! We celebrated this special moment with a traditional flag-crossing ceremony, accompanied by lively music and a fun round of limbo.
