Exploring the British Columbian Archipelago’s Most Remote Sacred Site By Marc Cappelletti I am walking in the footsteps of chiefs and carvers, warriors and weavers, shamans and slaves; people as connected to the land as the very trees from which they once made their homes. The ground is soft. It is sacred. And it lies at the edge of the world—Haida Gwaii, British Columbia. We are at the ancient village of SGang Gwaay Llnagaay, formerly known as Nan sdins or Ninstints, on the eastern edge of SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island).
When we, as Canadians, talk about our whole country, we say “from coast to coast to coast.” The three coasts feel very different underfoot. In the west, deep moss makes a trail that feels like walking over sofa cushions; in the east, long grasses swish and slap against your boots; and up north rocks and rivulets form tiled patterns over the permafrost. It was the west coast that convinced me to start working at sea.
Newfoundland’s Gros Morne National Park is one of the few places where you can walk on the Earth’s mantle and also cruise glacially carved freshwater fjords.
In this episode of Expedition Spotlight, join Cultural Specialist Susan Flanagan as she reveals what discoveries are in store on our Canadian Maritimes and Newfoundland expedition.
After unforgettable days exploring Antarctica, it was time to head north across the Drake Passage. Known for its unpredictable conditions, we were lucky to experience a smooth crossing with mild winds and swells up to three meters. National Geographic Resolution , our sturdy expedition ship, handled the gentle “Drake Shake” effortlessly. Onboard, the adventure continued. Naturalists and our photo instructor hosted fascinating presentations in the ice lounge, covering everything from Antarctica’s ecosystems to photography tips. These sessions were also broadcast to the cabins for those who preferred to watch from the comfort of their rooms. A highlight of the day was a behind-the-scenes tour of the ship’s galley. It was amazing to see how the crew managed to prepare the amazing, several course meals for us in such a small space. The teamwork and dedication in the galley were impressive, and it was a treat to get a glimpse of the kitchen’s operation. As we sailed north, we reflected on the incredible journey so far. While we looked ahead to new adventures, this peaceful crossing across the Drake Passage was a perfect way to transition from the awe of Antarctica to the next chapter of our expedition.
Today aboard National Geographic Quest, we visited two remarkable locations. In the morning, we explored Celestia Beach, a pristine and secluded stretch of white sand. Guests enjoyed a leisurely walk, perfect for birdwatching, where we spotted a howler monkey in the trees. The waves were inviting, providing a fun opportunity to play in the surf. In the afternoon, we ventured into the Palmares Mangrove Forest despite a light rain. The weather did not dampen our spirits, as we observed a variety of bird species, including woodpeckers, herons, and flycatchers. A highlight was seeing an American crocodile resting near the water's edge, a true spectacle. As the day came to a close, we returned to the ship and were treated to a breathtaking sunset, the perfect ending to a fulfilling day of exploration.
North Seymour is known for having the largest nesting colony of magnificent frigatebirds in the Galapagos Islands. On the natural history walk along the dry palo santo forest, we encountered not only male frigatebirds displaying the gular pouches, but countless yellow land iguanas. Lava lizards and different species of finches were also seen. In the afternoon, National Geographic Islander II relocated to our next island, Rabida. This island offered an exotic landscape, as its sand is red colored due to the large concentration of iron in its lava. Here, we practiced snorkeling and later in the afternoon we went back to explore the brackish water lagoon behind the beach where flamingos are often observed. It was another spectacular day in the Galapagos Islands!
Our second day at sea after leaving the landscape of Antarctica, we awoke to a gentle rolling ocean and sunshine. The waves were bedazzled with blue petrels, sooty shearwaters, black-browed and wandering albatross. Midmorning, National Geographic Explorer was granted permission to enter the three-mile radius of Cape Horn. We headed to the bow, the bridge, and the monkey deck to experience the wind and take in the views. Ezra spoke of the history of the landscape and sailing this notorious rough ocean, whilst other staff members recited the “Poem of the Albatross”, in both English and Spanish. By late afternoon, we entered the Beagle Channel and calmer waters while reflecting on this amazing voyage, the memories made, and packing for our future travels home. At the evening meeting, we enjoyed the slide show of the last 21 days of adventure and with a farewell speech from our captain, we did not say “goodbye,” rather a “see you next time.”
We started the day with a landing after breakfast in Orne Harbour. After a walk in the snow, we arrived at the chinstrap penguin colony at the top of the ridge. The second excursion of the day brought us to Danco Island, where we had the chance to disembark again, this time to observe the gentoo penguins. We finished our visit to Danco with the traditional polar plunge. After an already fruitful day, our daily recap was interrupted because an emperor penguin was sighted. We finished the day with one more disembarkation after dinner in Neko Harbour where both the penguins and the glacier competed for our attention.
