Exploring the British Columbian Archipelago’s Most Remote Sacred Site By Marc Cappelletti I am walking in the footsteps of chiefs and carvers, warriors and weavers, shamans and slaves; people as connected to the land as the very trees from which they once made their homes. The ground is soft. It is sacred. And it lies at the edge of the world—Haida Gwaii, British Columbia. We are at the ancient village of SGang Gwaay Llnagaay, formerly known as Nan sdins or Ninstints, on the eastern edge of SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island).
When we, as Canadians, talk about our whole country, we say “from coast to coast to coast.” The three coasts feel very different underfoot. In the west, deep moss makes a trail that feels like walking over sofa cushions; in the east, long grasses swish and slap against your boots; and up north rocks and rivulets form tiled patterns over the permafrost. It was the west coast that convinced me to start working at sea.
Newfoundland’s Gros Morne National Park is one of the few places where you can walk on the Earth’s mantle and also cruise glacially carved freshwater fjords.
In this episode of Expedition Spotlight, join Cultural Specialist Susan Flanagan as she reveals what discoveries are in store on our Canadian Maritimes and Newfoundland expedition.
Today we visited Floreana, this is one of the first islands in the Galapagos to experience human settlement due to its fresh water supply. It played a crucial role in the archipelago’s history as a stopping point for whalers, pirates, and explorers who put into place the popular Post Office Barrel. It still works today as a tradition to send letters all over the world by hand delivering them, and our guests got to be part of it. After enjoying a wonderful morning, we sailed to Punta Cormorant where we hiked and spotted sea turtles mating, lizards, blue-footed boobies, birds, sea lions and many others. We ended the great day with a mesmerizing sunset! What a wonderful time we had exploring Floreana.
As we navigated north across the Drake Passage, conditions gradually improved and blue petrels and black-browed albatrosses graced our journey as visitors. John Pailthorpe delivered a captivating retelling of Shackleton's attempted crossing of the Antarctic continent, recounting the trials faced by those rugged men who cared little for comfort yet had a penchant for taking mortal risks. Following him, National Geographic Photographer Ralph Lee Hopkins shared some of the many future exploration options available to our guests through National Geographic-Lindblad Expeditions. As we approached Tierra del Fuego, the seas calmed. Although the skies remained overcast, wildlife became increasingly abundant as we neared the entrance to the Beagle Channel. Captain Martin presented a fascinating overview of the construction of MV National Geographic Resolution and her impressive capabilities. As we entered the channel, we were greeted by hourglass and dusky dolphins while enjoying empanadas for teatime. Once we entered the Beagle, sailing was smooth all the way to Ushuaia.
Our ship anchored off Coiba Island, Panama, early in the morning. The sun had just risen, casting a golden light over the dense rainforest. After a wonderful breakfast, we disembarked at the ranger station. Dividing into groups, some of us set off on a guided walk through the jungle, spotting scarlet macaws and other colorful birds in the trees adjacent to the ocean. Others chose to kayak or paddleboard along the mangrove-lined shores, gliding over the calm, clear water. By midday, we returned to the ship and cruised by Zodiacs toward Cocos Island, an uninhabited islet nearby. The staff prepared our snorkeling gear, and soon we were in the water, surrounded by schools of vibrant fish. The reef was teeming with life—parrotfish, angelfish, and even a few white-tip reef sharks moved gracefully among the coral. Sunlight filtered through the surface, illuminating the underwater world in dazzling colors. After an unforgettable afternoon, we returned to the ship, exhilarated by the day’s adventures. As the sun set, we looked back at the islands, grateful for the opportunity to explore such pristine and biodiverse waters.
As the warm Cambodian sun rose over the mighty Mekong River, Jahan eased up to the riverbank at Angkor Ban just 15 kilometers from Phnom Penh. After breakfast, guests departed the ship to roam around Angkor Ban, a traditional Khmer village bustling with vegetable markets and beautiful vernacular architecture. Khmer guides led guests around the village, entering a traditional house while engaging with local children and residents. After returning to Jahan , local monks came aboard to chant in Pali and give a blessing to guests continuing their voyage. Guests enjoyed presentations by cultural specialist Julia Esteve on Cambodian and Vietnamese religion and culture, and by photo instructor Giulia Ciampini on smartphone photography. Afterward guests departed for Prek Bangkong by tuktuk, to visit a local Khmer silk farm workshop and traditional Khmer residence once owned by an architect of the Royal Palace. Guests later congregated on the bow of Jahan to celebrate sailing through the “Meeting of the Waters,” the confluence of the Mekong, Bassac, and Tonle Sap Rivers. A wonderful start to a magical journey down the Mekong River.
Our first full day spent exploring this enchanted archipelago was filled with surprises. After breakfast, we walked along the beach of Gardner Bay to enjoy a colony of friendly sea lions. We got to know some of the famous birds that Darwin observed during his visit to this island, such as finches and mockingbirds. Afterwards, we practiced snorkeling and enjoyed swimming in the turquoise waters of the bay. In the afternoon, we visited Punta Suarez, one of the most amazing sites in the Galapagos. We saw marine iguanas basking on the rocks, blue-footed boobies, frigates, seagulls, and a great colony of Nazca boobies. The day’s highlight was a few waved albatrosses, a bird that usually migrates at this time of the year. We finished our day of incredible experiences with the tame wildlife and the spectacular scenery of this volcanic archipelago.
