We began our day with a visit to Alert Bay. This town, traditional village of the Namgis tribe of the Kwakwakawakw, is the ceremonial center of this Nation. After breakfast we headed for the ‘Umista Cultural Centre. Many took the chance to stroll along Alert Bay’s placid waterfront. Once at ‘Umista, we viewed the Potlatch Collection. This art was judicially stolen after a famous potlatch was raided at the town of Mimkwumlis. Long held captive at museums across Canada, much of the art has “returned from slavery” to the people who created it. While this story starts with injustice, through tenacity and endurance the Kwakwakawakw have turned it into one of triumph. The art now serves as inspiration for locals and visitors alike. Vivian told us about the masks and other ceremonial regalia and how they might have been used at a potlatch.
Next we ascended the hill to the Alert Bay bighouse. This house was built just for potlatching and is huge. Hundreds of potlatches have been held here, and few outsiders have seen the place. What a privilege to visit it! We were met the T’sasala Dancers, a group of young people who are learning traditional ceremony. They demonstrated traditional dances of the Tseyka such as the Hamatsa, with ferocious dancers acting out cannibal possession. We also saw the Nanalala or Weather Dance and the Madam or Flier Dance. Finally, the Tlasala portion of a potlatch was demonstrated with headdress dancers and the appearance of a recreated supernatural creature—a killer whale and a bookwus.
We motored south into Johnstone Strait. This is one of the constrictions through which salmon must pass on their way to the Frasier River, and killer whales frequently gather to “greet” the salmon. We found just a pair of the whales as we traveled, which was gratifying, though by now we are a bit spoiled on great killer whale watching. And so we made our way south through the strait, passing cedar and fir trees, intent on our southern destination.
