A moody light surrounded our approach to Brown Bluff this morning as our first impression of the Antarctic Peninsula began to take shape. Brown Bluff lies at the extreme northeastern tip of the peninsula and signifies the location where one could conceivably begin a hike (albeit a very strenuous and dangerous hike) taking them all the way to the south pole without encountering open water. Unfortunately, prevailing northerly winds and a moderate swell packed large chunks of ice along the coast, preventing our first continental landing.
Undeterred, we pushed further south where the winds worked in our favor this time by clearing a way through Fridtjof Sound, the gateway to the Weddell Sea, and the east Antarctic peninsula. Normally choked with massive tabular icebergs and dense sea ice, these northerly winds pushed us, and the ice, southward, allowing us to explore the northern reaches of the Weddell Sea.
With a wonderful patchwork of lenticular clouds shape-shifting above us and a layer of light, marshmallowy clouds at sea level, our search for an alternative offered no lack of beauty. Veering to the north we entered Duse Bay and at its northern reaches found a broad, flat, expansive layer of sea ice attached fast to shore. Nosing into this 3-4 foot-thick ice proved sufficient to warrant a little stroll. The next two-plus hours were spent walking on water, literally. Over 160 brightly-clad bodies took to the ice, soaking up the novelty of such a surreal location under such brilliant sunny conditions.
Still determined to set foot on solid ground, our afternoon took us a few miles south again to Devil Island. Subject to the same winds as Brown Bluff, this north-facing coastline was also ice choked and prevented landing attempt #2. This time, however, there was no swell, nor wind, only grounded icebergs blocking our approach to the island. This proved a stroke of luck as our Zodiac cruises turned into a sculpture garden tour as we weaved cautiously within a crystalline labyrinth of grounded icebergs and sea ice.
Peppering the ice were numerous clusters of Adelie penguins coming and going from the substantial colony we could make out on the shores of Devil Island. With shiny chests resembling mother-of-pearl, most of these birds were busy oiling their feathers for their stint at sea. Gleaming in the sunlight, our first close encounters with Adelie’s matched the faces on these cruises...bright and ready for the next few days at sea.
