Approaching the South Shetlands, 2/21/2020, National Geographic Orion
Aboard the
National Geographic Orion
Antarctica
The seas and wind moderated through the night and there was a healthy crowd at breakfast, looking forward to our passage into Antarctic waters, south of 60◦ south latitude. By crossing that line we officially are in Antarctia, though it would take most of the day to transit the Polar Front and make the ecological jump (figuratively) into the colder Southern Ocean. The literal jump into the ocean, a true polar plunge, may well come later on in the voyage.
Growing up in the Appalachian foothills of the Garden State, Rob instinctively knew it made a lot more sense to head over the hill into the fields, forests, lakes, and streams behind his house, rather than down the road to the shopping mall in front ...
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South Georgia on my mind. It has been on our minds for some time now, and this morning we finally set foot on the island that is David Attenborough’s favorite place on Earth. And it sure lives up to its reputation. At least 25,000 pairs of king penguins met us as we landed at Gold Harbour. Low winds and warm sunshine made it a contrast to our last stop, the South Orkneys. Some of us headed up toward Gold Head, while others enjoyed the hustling and bustling of the colony on the beach. Cooper Bay has always been a spectacular site for a Zodiac cruise. The rugged geology and the surrounding kelp forests offer an experience in sensory overload. We also observed the elusive macaroni penguin. These penguins live in Cooper Bay and other inaccessible places on the island. They can be hard to get to, despite being the most numerous penguins in South Georgia, with at least two million individuals. It was a stunning first day of adventure around this beautiful isle.
National Geographic Endurance left the Antarctic Peninsula and sailed enroute to the South Orkney Islands, making its way through ice and calm waters. We observed multiple whale species feeding in the nutrient rich waters. There were humpbacks, minkes, and a pod of fin whales who were travelling with a blue whale! The seabirds were struggling with the light winds, however, it gave us a chance to observe them closely and get great photographs. We are saddened to leave Antarctica, but more than excited for the islands of South Orkney and South Georgia ahead.
We arrived at the picturesque Cierva Cove early this morning, greeted by beautifully calm conditions, fresh snow on the mountains, and a crisp air temperature just below zero. We launched the Zodiacs for a wildlife-filled cruise among the icebergs. We encountered gentoo penguins returning to the colony to feed their chicks, a beautiful, young leopard seal on the ice, and, the special treat of the day, an incredibly curious Antarctic minke whale! The whale swam from boat to boat, repeatedly swimming around and underneath us, clearly looking up at the Zodiacs and the awe-struck people in them! After a lunchtime repositioning of National Geographic Endurance , we dropped the Zodiacs once again. This time we were landing ashore at Palaver Point for a good leg stretch! A haven for penguin lovers, with its extensive chinstrap penguin colony, the landing site was busy with a mixture of molting adult birds, fledged chicks, and a few young chicks still on the nest begging for food from their parents. We had the chance for a snowy climb to the viewpoint to take in the last views of the White Continent before National Geographic Endurance’s last departure from Antarctica for the season!
