Ashmore Reef, 7/26/2023, National Geographic Orion
Aboard the
National Geographic Orion
Australia and New Zealand
Today we sailed towards Ashmore Reef, an area formed by four islands and two lagoons. It has been a protected marine reserve for over twenty years. Thousands of seabirds nest in these islands. As we approached the islands, we observed big groups of sooty terns, boobies, and noddies feeding and flying around our ship. Indonesian fishermen have visited Ashmore Reef since the early 18th century. Today, there is an agreement between Australia and Indonesia that lets traditional fishermen visit the islands for shelter, freshwater, and to visit grave sites.
Photo caption and photographer: Brown booby flying near Ashmore Reef. Photo by Alex Searle
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Gidday and welcome to a unique part of the world, the west coast of Australia. After leaving Perth, National Geographic Orion set a course towards a remote set of islands on the offshore of Australia called the Rowley Shoals. Sunrise was a welcome phenomenon as we made our way towards our destination. We progressed through our normal routine of introducing the expedition staff to guests, in addition to Zodiac and snorkel briefings. Snorkel gear was distributed, and guests buzzed with anticipation as they prepared for the adventure ahead. After lunch, Zodiacs full of guests were sent off into the lagoon of the Australian atoll along Mermaid Reef. The water was chilly, but the environment was epic with vibrant corals, numerous species of fish, and calming sunshine. As a Polynesian person, I could have sworn I was in French Polynesia or the Cook Islands…but then I’m biased. All in all, it was a great first day for our happy guests that was topped off with a joyous Captain’s Welcome cocktail party hosted by Captain Alex. Cheers!
The morning began with wellness stretches hosted by Belinda on the sundeck. Guests enjoyed watching the sunrise whilst spotting the occasional passing whale. After another delicious breakfast in the outdoor café, undersea specialist Adam delivered his presentation, “Avian Physiology and Behavioural Adaptations.” This presentation was partially postponed by a collection of whales engaged in a mating display in close proximity to the ship. Guests were treated to a rare encounter that included one female and several pursuing male humpbacks. Lots of tail, fin, and chin slapping could be seen and heard as the whales twisted and turned over one another in fierce competition. After lunch, we dropped the pick adjacent to the Lacepede Islands. Passengers enjoyed the sheltered waters the sand cays provided whilst cruising in the turquoise bay and looking for wildlife. The ever-present population of brown boobies was the centerpiece, complemented by the frigates, crested terns, oystercatchers, pelicans, and red-capped plovers to name a few. The sea snake guests spotted alongside the boat as we departed was a rare treat. Once inside the lagoon, the resident crocodile posed politely for some great photos. The clear, shallow waters offered guests the chance to observe a myriad of green sea turtles, shovelnose sharks, and cowtail rays. Back on board, guests indulged in a cocktail hour hosted by Captain Alex, who delivered a sincere farewell on behalf of all crew before we retired to the dining room one last time.
Our day began with a truly enchanting Zodiac cruise. We were bathed in the golden hues of sunrise as we embarked on a journey through Talbot Bay. Our passage through Cyclone Creek was a testament to nature's artistry, weaving us delicately through sandstone walls that stood like ancient sentinels. As we ventured deeper into the heart of the bay, the embrace of the mangrove forests beckoned us, revealing a hidden world of wonder. The sun, a radiant painter's brush, transformed the walls and cliffs into a breathtaking canvas of vibrant reds, casting a spellbinding spectacle that left us in awe. Nature's grandeur was on full display as we witnessed this stunning sunrise. Among the intricate mangroves, we were treated to delightful encounters with striated herons and playful honeyeaters. These charming creatures danced in harmony with the surroundings, a testament to the delicate balance of life in this thriving ecosystem. Our day's narrative took an exhilarating turn when we crossed paths with a dynamic duel in the sky – a pair of majestic wedge-tailed eagles engaged in a spirited skirmish with a white-bellied sea eagle. This untamed display of nature's power and beauty left us humbled. On our homeward voyage, a brief yet exhilarating glimpse of one of the bay's crocodiles heightened our sense of wonder. These ancient reptilian guardians added an element of mystique to our day's adventure. As the afternoon sun embraced us, we set forth on a daring escapade aboard a speed boat into the legendary Horizontal Falls – a breathtaking tapestry of rushing waters that painted an indelible memory in our hearts. Driven by powerful tidal movements surging through narrow coastal gorges, these falls create a mesmerizing display of water, defying gravity as they cascade horizontally. This unique manifestation of nature's force draws adventurers from far and wide to witness the spectacle. The sheer magnitude of nature's raw forces left us exhilarated and humbled. As we bid adieu to Talbot Bay, the heavens themselves seemed to celebrate our journey by unveiling a magical sunset. Against this awe-inspiring backdrop, humpback whales graced us with their majestic presence, breaching and leaping as if to share in the joy of the day's discoveries. Truly, the Kimberleys have once again woven their spell around us, reminding us of the boundless beauty and uncharted mysteries that continue to unfold with every step of our journey. Each day in this remarkable corner of the world reaffirms the endless capacity of nature's wonders to captivate and amaze us.