Heading home! Last evening National Geographic Orion left the South Shetland Islands and entered the Drake Passage as we made our way toward Ushuaia, and the end of our incredible journey to Antarctica. It was a day to get caught up on some sleep, listen to a number of presentations, and get to see some of those amazing seabirds that patrol the Southern Ocean, which they call home! The seas were kind to us in general, a little bumpy in the morning, but settled down later in the day. All-in-all a pretty relaxing day after a very busy time on the Antarctic Peninsula!
Rich Kirchner has worked as a naturalist in Antarctica, Alaska, the Bering Sea, Baja and the High Arctic, including Svalbard, Greenland, the Canadian Arctic and Iceland, along with other destinations. His 33 years as a professional wildlife photograp...
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National Geographic Resolution spent the day surrounded by icebergs and sea ice in Crystal Sound as the weather got sunnier throughout the day. Guests experienced Detaille Island during the morning activities. Everyone went on guided Zodiac rides around the island where we saw numerous crabeater seals and icebergs. We stopped to observe an Adelie penguin colony, including dozens of penguins waiting to jump in the ocean. Many people went on shore to see the historic research hut from 1956-58, including all the original canned food and equipment kept in pristine condition. Some guests climbed the snowy hill to see the top of the penguin colony across a deep ravine. In the afternoon, the ship cruised around Crystal Sound so we could see the sea ice, glacial icebergs, and huge tabular icebergs. There were beautiful blue sea caves and arches in many of the icebergs, as well as dozens of crabeater seals on the sea ice. However, two humpback whales stole the show when they appeared in the sea ice near the ship. We could hear their loud exhaling and see them diving up close. The rest of the day was spent relaxing, enjoying a presentation, cocktail hour, recap, and dinner as the sun showed brightly in the west. What a perfect day to end our awesome week in Antarctica.
At 7am, National Geographic Resolution’s horn sounded as we crossed the Antarctic Circle. After steaming south overnight we awoke to see Adelaide Island and spent the next few hours probing south, seeking an ice-free route to the Gullet, the narrow passage that leads into Marguerite Bay. In between marvelling at the scenery, guests learned about the future of polar governance from naturalist Kevin Rattue. After carving through the broken sea ice in Hanusse Bay, spotting crabeater seals and minke whales, we found that the narrow route to the east of the Gullet, the Gunnel Channel, was clear and navigable. Carefully negotiating down the passage, we emerged into the open waters to the south and nestled for lunch in the spectacular Laubeuf Fjord. While Zodiacs zipped off to explore the nearby shores and islets, we also deployed our fleet of kayaks so that guests could enjoy the still ice floes at sea level and under their own steam. Crabeater seals lounged on last year’s sea ice, a leopard scowled as we passed, and magnificent ice sculptures lingered in the bay. Once back aboard we prepared the ship for the polar plunge and 76 brave guests finished the day by leaping into the icy waters of the Antarctic Circle.
Our day started with mirror-calm waters and still air as we transited through the steep-walled Lemaire Channel. Guests zoomed around the ship before breakfast, taking photos of the reflections and passing icebergs. Our morning stop was at the history-laden Petermann Island where guests watched nesting Antarctic shags, gentoo penguin chicks, and learned about the numerous stories from days gone by. While everyone was ashore, the undersea team went for a dive on one of the vertical underwater walls of Petermann Island. We encountered several species of sea slugs and sea spiders while exploring the steep wall. In the afternoon, the ship weaved its way through massive icebergs to the Berthelot Islands where we spent a marvelous afternoon cruising by Zodiac. Many guests got to see whales up close, and some immersed themselves in Antarctica on a “Contemplative Zodiac Cruise”. Guests spent time drawing and painting among the abstract ice forms and beautiful Antarctic light.
