When we stood on deck today and peered out the windows, it was hard to believe that we are in the middle of the Drake Passage, usually one of the most notorious stretches of sea on earth. With just 2-3 m of well and light easterly winds, the surface of the ocean has been quite calm, making for a very pleasant crossing so far. Although it is quiet for birds and mammals, we have been busy on board, decontaminating our boots and hiking gear, as well as enjoying a cocktail party hosted by the Captain. Tomorrow we hope to have our first glimpse of Antarctica: the South Shetland Islands.