At Sea Off The Coast Of Guinea, 4/14/2013, National Geographic Explorer
Aboard the
National Geographic Explorer
West Africa
This expedition along the west coast of Africa has been filled with many images and impressions. Now that National Geographic Explorer is beginning to make her way slightly to the northwest instead of due west, the climate will begin to change. The oceanic currents that run along the west coast of Africa change as you move north. Our journey began in South Africa where the Benguela and Alghulas currents meet. We then encountered the Guinea current which swept us west to the southerly Canary current. These water currents make certain areas of the African coast some of the most productive fisheries in the world. We have witnessed the different fishing vessels and techniques along the coast as some countries receive more of the benefit of these upwelling currents than others.
We learned about these currents in one of the presentations offered on board. There was also time for downloading photographs or catching up on our journals. Later in the day the weather was nice enough that we enjoyed drinks on the bow of the ship before we headed inside for Recap, a chance to talk about things we had seen from the previous day and topics to be raised about our next country visit: The Gambia, the smallest continental country in Africa. The adventure continues.
Jason grew up traveling with his oceanographer father and biologist mother, both of whom worked with Lindblad Expeditions-National Geographic. This led him to a job as a Zodiac driver while still a teenager. After receiving a degree in geology from...
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Having left the Canary Islands late last night we set sail for the southern city of Agadir. This being our last full day on board National Geographic Explorer after five weeks of exploring the coast of West Africa there is a noticeable air of regret that this amazing voyage is coming to an end in short order. Talk of packing, shipping treasures acquired along the way home and soaking in those final moments with shipmates and this beautiful ocean home. Having a full day at sea to ease the transition is always nice. David Barnes, our historian, gave a presentation this morning on Charles Darwin and his famous voyage on the HMS Beagle, which brought him to the Canary Islands among other destinations. One of the more rewarding aspects of spending a day at sea is the ability to observe the wildlife that calls the open ocean home. From the bridge of the ship or any of the decks, if one spends enough time scanning the waters and horizon, something good is bound to show up. Of course seabirds are a near constant companion of the mariner and today would be no different. Naturalist Richard White can always be found on the bridge or forward decks on the hunt for the winged masters of sea. Having joined him on the bridge this morning we soon began spotting various seabirds. For the last two days the Cory’s shearwaters (Calonectris diomedea) have been relatively abundant on all horizons. A couple of other species that can be seen here in less abundance were also spotted. Both Bulwer’s petrel (Bulweria bulwerii), and white-faced storm petrels (Pelagodroma marina) are more locally distributed and the waters between The Canaries and Morocco are where you’re likely to see them. However, it’s not only seabirds one can see out here. For off in the distance several splashes, distinct from the occasional white-capped waves, could be seen heading towards the ship from the one o’clock position about a half mile out. “Dolphins!!” Richard exclaimed. And we headed down to the bow to get a closer look. Before we could travel the two decks down these incredible animals were already taking their favored position just in front of the bow. Atlantic spotted dolphins (Stenella frontalis) had been seen intermittently on the voyage but whenever one gets the privilege to observe these animals it puts a smile on the face and instills a sense of awe at their agility and shear grace. As the first arrivals rode the pressure wave created at the bow of the ship (bow riding) others joined in from seemingly all directions, taking their part in this brief respite of fun in the dolphins’ day. Surely if one were having a rough day or saddened by our pending departure from our fine ship this sight would wipe away all woe. This thrill was not observed once but several times throughout the day. As our course brought us in the proximity of – in fact directly over top of – a seamount formation, the action would continue with several more sightings of marine mammals and seabirds. Spotting active marine mammals on a relatively calm sea is aided by the presence of active groups of seabirds feeding on congregations of bait fish, called bait balls. Our afternoon was enhanced by more sightings of the Atlantic spotted dolphins as well as two incredible looks at common dolphins (Delphinus spp.), their tri-colored flanks and slightly larger size distinguishing them from the spotted dolphins. To add to the cetacean buffet, a relatively large group of short-finned pilot whales (Globicephla macrorhunchus) where observed about 3: 00pm, making for a triple play of marine mammals for the day. As evening drew nearer the focus was shifted to a fine celebration to the end of an incredible expedition in Western Africa. Captain Ben Lyons was to host an end of trip cocktail party and a slideshow comprised of images taken by our shipmates would be debuted in the lounge as even then dolphins, seabirds and the rich life of the Atlantic passed by.
With the sun rising in a shroud of Saharan dust to starboard, early morning saw us cruising northwards, bound for the Canary Islands. Although geographically relatively close to the African continent, these islands belong to Spain and are thus part of the European Union. The Spanish connection dates from the early fifteenth century, the islands being among the first flush of new settlements of the Age of Discovery, subsequently an important point of departure for the transatlantic expeditions of Christopher Columbus. When the first Spanish colonists arrived, the islands were inhabited by a people known as the Guanche who seem to have been of Berber origin, having arrived via a relatively short sea voyage from the land now called Morocco. The Guanche were enslaved and put to work farming sugar on terraces still in use on the steep slopes of these volcanic islands, a system of agriculture that was developed in the New World as a plantation system using African slave labor. The archipelago takes its name from a mastiff dog indigenous to the island that Columbus found useful in hunting down the Arawak peoples of the Caribbean. The colonial exploitation of the Americas began here. A variety of afternoon options were offered; one visiting the fertile Oratava Valley with its extensive banana plantations and profusion of wildflowers with a further stop at the Botanical Gardens, established in 1788, which provided an opportunity to view same prize specimens, including a giant ficus macrophylia. This excursion also provided a chance to stroll through the charming village of La Oratavia with its cobblestone streets and distinctive architecture. Both in the Botanical Gardens and on the walking tour of the old town, dragon trees were in evidence. We had stopped at the Mirador Humbolt for an overview of Santa Cruz, the viewpoint named after the celebrated German naturalist whose descriptions of dragon trees and other exotic vegetation had so impressed the young Darwin that he yearned to visit the islands. His Cambridge professor, Henslow, promised him a trip to the Canaries but was not able to deliver on the promise. To compensate, he arranged for Darwin to travel on board HMSS Beagle on a circumnavigation of the world as a gentleman companion to the captain and as the ship’s naturalist. The first stop was to be the Canary Islands but when the ship arrived it was held in quarantine because of a cholera outbreak in Britain. A five year voyage with forays into the tropical world of South America were to prove more than adequate compensation for the disappointment, however, and the rest, as they say, is history.
It’s finished – with the general abandon of our adventure in the desert today. The desert has welcomed us: the desert has pushed out! That’s real adventure. The fog welcomed us at early morning while docking in Dakhla. Unexpected but not so rare in this area of Western Sahara. Tens of 4x4s are parked on the dock to bring us into the desert. As a giant expedition, we leave as a snake of cars toward the town. Crossing the town reminds me of the controversial history of this territory. At first a Spanish colony, than abandoned for the de-colonization of 1974 and occupied by the Moroccans. Since then, it has been a Moroccan territory. But the original population is now deprived of a country of their own. It’s a controversial situation, not easy to resolve, where we tread delicately without raising questions that can be politically incorrect for the Moroccans who are working for us now. The long snake of cars crosses Dakhla and after a brief break at a square for an explanation about our guide, we proceed to the desert. The desert that starts in Egypt arrives here at the Atlantic Ocean. Dakhla is a peninsula so we are going out to the north and then curve 90 degrees east, leaving the asphalted road for a sand one. The day is getting hot. No wind. We run with the 4x4s on the sand. That’s not a desert of dunes but of rocks and sand. Bumping is part of the adventure. And our backs feel that. We arrive at the camp. The group is quite excited to be here and they spread around to discover the place...while the wind starts blowing slowly. I go straight to the lonely dune visible. It’s a mile away. When finally there, I am already walking diagonally, leaning into the strong wind. Sand flies everywhere. I protect my camera bag with the wind-stopper jacket I have. Better to protect it than me. I wait for few minutes on the top of the dunes, hearing the whistle of the wind and the pricks of the sand on my skin. Then, I turn and I go back, following my footprints already erased. At the camp, the group is trying to eat the lunch served by the local crew. Sand is everywhere...we chew sand and couscous together. My dish is pink – the color of the sand. We decide that is better to go back soon. Just in case it gets worse. While we are bumping on the road, I cannot stop thinking that the wind is coming from the east, from the new Dakhla, the one rebuilt after the Moroccan occupation to replace the original settlement of the Saharawis. There must be a meaning in it!
