At Sea, One Day Away from Japan, 8/25/2024, National Geographic Resolution
Aboard the
National Geographic Resolution
Alaska
The waters were alive with marine life and over the day, saw us encounter 20+ sperm whales as well as several fin whales that loitered remarkably close to our comfortable home, National Geographic Resolution. The avian life was just as captivating—our first sightings of streaked shearwaters were long anticipated, and we marveled at rafts of Leach’s and Tristram’s storm petrels that danced on the waves in near-comical fashion.
A native of the southern heathlands of England, Lisle has been a naturalist and dedicated ‘birder’ since early childhood. After an undergraduate degree in Geography, and 6 months on a Spanish ferry as a whale watching guide, a DST-NRF scholarship led...
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We woke up in the Ōarai-Ibaraki port after a relatively calm night. Right after breakfast, it was time for a visit to the Kairaku-en Garden. We wandered through the Mousou Bamboo Garden and marveled at all the Japanese plum trees as local guide Roy described the garden, which was created in 1842. This garden is considered one of the three most beautiful official gardens in Japan. Kasama Village was our first destination after lunch, an artist’s village of potters. Fukuda-San, a sixth-generation potter, graciously showed us his kiln and wares. Shunpuu Banri-So Villa is the former home of the renowned artist Kitaohji Rosanjin. Now an art museum, the area is surrounded by the most enchanting Japanese garden in a rural setting. We were invited to take a stroll and enjoy a moment of peace and quiet before we head to Tokyo tomorrow.
Our second stop in Japan was Muroran, a port further south in Hokkaido. We were welcomed by the town mayor as well as locals of all ages waving the local flag. Buses took us from the port to several local highlights, including a hike at the Mt. Usu volcano geopark, or a visit to the renowned hot springs, Noboribetsu Onsen. Those who chose to visit the National Ainu Museum were treated to a traditional Ainu dance performance. Different dances highlighted swords, red-crowned cranes, and the mouth harp (mukkuri), representing their importance to the culture. The museum houses the largest collection of Ainu artefacts, as well as several replica huts that illustrate how people once lived and protected themselves from the elements. The exhibits gave great insight into clothing, jewelry, hunting and fishing gear, cooking practices, and the ceremonial activities of the Ainu people. Also represented were people who identify as Ainu in the modern day and how they express that culture through their occupations and lifestyles.
Today was our second full day in the city of Kushiro, and everyone aboard National Geographic Resolution looked forward to a myriad of choices. Some went to the Kushiro Japanese Crane Reserve to see the endangered red-capped crane. This was followed by the delectable gastronomic treat of walking through the Washo Market, filling our trays and bowls with all manner of seafood to enjoy before lunch! This was topped off by an icy gelato! Others went to the Robatayaki for a barbecue. They filled their plates with delicious seafood, which they grilled on an open charcoal brazier to their satisfaction. Welcome to Japan, where the food is amazing, and we all satiated our appetites! Next, we visited the intellectually stimulating Kushiro City Museum, with displays on wild nature, Ainu culture, and salmon. We enjoyed a lovely walk through the rock garden. What a wonderful community Kushiro is. We felt a collective pang of regret that our time here has come to an end. Tomorrow, we will explore Muroran on the southern end of the island of Hokkaido!
