Today was a truly Antarctic day that started south of the circle. We would soon experience two opposite sides of the weather this continent has to offer. Early on winds gusting up to 90 km an hour produced lively seas that crushed against the many icebergs floating around and that, combined with the very dark skies, created a gloomy yet very interesting environment through which to travel. In the afternoon, we witnessed a much kinder Antarctica—winds died completely to create glassy, calm waters and fantastic reflections of the many bergs around appeared. We visited an historic British base converted into a museum and ended the day sailing north among icebergs and humpback whales.