After a couple of exciting days in Malta and Gozo, this day was devoted completely to the ship. We had scheduled a full day at sea to let her show her glory, and we all anxiously awaited the setting of sails at 0900. Contrary to the forecast, we had a low morning fog blanket as we got into position at about 25 miles south of the Sicilian coastline. The light easterly winds had not yet backed to west, so we began the sail maneuvers by bracing the yards on three masts to a starboard tack, knowing that we would probably have to brace back again later in the day.
“Hit the Rig,” came the command from Captain Pushkarev, and 18 sailors climbed the ratlines into the fog-shrouded rigging. Most of us watched the setting of the square sails from the spanker deck with a play-by-play description from the expedition leader, and then we moved forward for the setting of the jibs. We finished up on Sea Cloud’s busy fo’c’sle (forecastle) with a glorious view of the bowsprit and the jibs. This was what we came for.
But Sea Cloud is more than sailing, and we had the full day to explore this floating museum and enjoy the first class amenities. National Geographic photographer Massimo Bassano gave a fascinating introduction to photography on the lido deck flat screen, before the crew transformed the area into the lunch deck. The weather has been unseasonably chilly in the Mediterranean this year, but the wind dropped and the sun was shining as our chefs grilled freshly-caught grouper and sea bream under the lido canvas. Mediterranean salads were accompanied by an excellent Maltese sauvignon blanc, and everybody was ready to relax in their favorite deck chair while the wind finally began to pick up from the west.
It was blowing a fresh breeze during historian Robyn Woodward’s talk about the ancient Greeks in Sicily, and the expedition leader rushed in at the end to announce that Captain Pushkarev was going to tack the ship as we were getting close to the coast of Sicily. Tacking a square-rigger is no small feat, and sailors were scurrying from mast to mast, hauling lines, dropping jibs, and bracing yards in a riot of action. When it all settled we were healing hard to starboard with a great sail that caused problems for our baker Samuel, who was trying to keep his custom-made crepes on the slanted griddle.
After hauling down the sails with the crew going aloft for the final furling in soft afternoon light, we finished the day with a special deck dinner featuring a freshly caught yellow-fin tuna that was seared and also offered as sashimi and fresh wasabi. Enthusiastic applause rounded off the day, for the chefs, the stewards, the sailors, Captain Pushkarev, and most of all for a fantastic ship that had given us a glorious introduction of the weeks to come!
