In this part of the world, weather is king. In true Subantarctic form, today’s plan was fully at the mercy of that noble force. Having made good time from our visit to Campbell Island the day prior in hopes of ducking for cover from a pending mega weather system, we intended to seek shelter in the protection of Carnley Harbour on the southern end of the Auckland Islands. With winds and sea state mounting by early morning, National Geographic Orion made her entrance into Carnley just before breakfast. As we entered the narrow passage, wind speeds were topping 50 knots, and the sea was awash with frothy wind-flattened waves. Thousands of sooty shearwaters, prions, and scores of albatross whirled about in the intense winds as if it were just another day at the office.

We found ourselves anchored in Tagua Bay, bow into the maelstrom to ride out the day in comfort and calm. We enjoyed a respite from our busy days past and took in the stunning beauty of this wild and remarkable place.