Words from our morning guide:
“Welcome to Gambia, I’m Babar from Banjul. We have no time to waste. There are 550 species of birds to look for today. Right now, we are quickly passing by a multitude of monuments – there is one for independence, one for a military take-over, and one to make sure that no one ever forgets our president’s birthday. Yes, that billboard says it is our sacred duty to vote for him. Yes, there are lots of other billboards for cellphones. Africell, Samsung, we can’t do without them. If you want to get minutes, we can stop at Revelation Top Technology – they are friends of mine. But first, let me talk about agriculture – our backbone. Look at that baobob tree- it’s surrounded by hooded vultures, our sanitary inspectors, they also like to watch us tap the palm wine, better known as ‘kill-me-quick’ or ‘firewater.’ Next door is a stand of okra, or lady’s fingers. Look up, there’s a hammer kop, a white-faced scops owl, and a flock of western gray plantain-eaters. Get out the cameras- the green vervet monkeys are patiently posing on the banks of the creek. The blue-bellied roller bird is waiting over there in the fig tree that is strangling that cashew tree. Yes, we are now seeing the amazing green turaco. But, don’t look down because a 6’ black forest cobra is raising his head in amazement. He hasn’t seen so many two-legged creatures wearing beads and hats and multicolored clothing in a long time. We might want to back away and hurry to the bus before the red colobus monkeys take our seats. Maybe we can stop at the Timeless Cyber Café – they have internet and a dish made out of a vegetable called ‘mothers in law tongues.’ No visit to Gambia is complete without trying it.”
An afternoon encounter:
“Boss lady. You must be my friend. I have no other friend than you today. I want you to take something home from Gambia. I wove baskets out of elephant grass this morning, painted a sand canvas this afternoon, but now I am ready to offer you a fine price on a necklace that is as beautiful as you are. My name is Mr. Cheap. I will always make the best deal for you. What – you don’t think elephant grass and plastic go together? And you don’t like the look of dancing girls on the beach? But I’m sure this necklace is ready to go with you. It’s made of old, old glass and fine, fine hippo teeth. You don’t want to buy teeth? Oh, it’s really cowbone. Cowbone with cracks. You think it’s plastic? No, it can’t be. OK. Maybe we should look at my brother’s batik. He paints with wax and then gets our mother to dye it. Here she comes, her hands are blue and she will not take no for an answer. Be my friend and life will be so much easier for both of us.”
