Throughout the night National Geographic Sea Bird motored briskly towards a morning anchorage at Takatz Bay, which is deeply incised into the mountains of Baranof Island. Cottony layers of fog enveloped the ship as we entered the sheltered waterway to explore the shorelines by kayak and our trusty inflatable boats. Wisps of fog laced the steep hillsides clothed with Sitka spruce, western hemlock, and Alaskan yellow cedar. Kayaking is a marvelous means of silently gliding along at one’s own pace to enjoy the pristine beauty of this wild place. Those who cruised with naturalists traveled farther towards the mouth of the bay as the fog reluctantly lifted. Eagles and kingfishers perched in the lichen-festooned trees, and a mink and playful family of river otters appeared for a few lucky observers.

Everyone returned to the ship by late morning when Andy Szabo, Director of the Alaska Whale Foundation, joined us to provide insight into the natural history and current research on humpback whales in the region. His entertaining and informative presentation offered a perfect introduction for our afternoon, as we set off to search for these magnificent marine mammals in Frederick Sound. Humpbacks appeared periodically throughout the afternoon, spouting and fluking against a backdrop of high mountains and fluffy clouds above a glassy, calm sea. There was a chance to watch a presentation on Alaskan geology and then to return to the decks to take in the peaceful setting, interrupted now and then by more whales and flashy black-and-white Dall’s porpoises.

While adults enjoyed dinner in the dining room and whales through the windows, the younger guests had movie night and a special meal in the lounge. As darkness settled in, a film about Petersburg provided an overview in preparation for tomorrow’s visit to this truly Alaskan fishing town.