We moved from our anchorage north of Baltra at 3:00 a.m. and in two and a half (slightly rocky) hours reached Bartolome. As soon as the anchor was down our crew lowered the Zodiacs and at 6:00 a.m. I gave an optional wake-up call, heard only by those who had set their PA system dial on channel one, for those who wished to join us on a pre-breakfast hike. No one who took the hike was in the least bit sorry for making the effort to climb the 370 steps to the summit of Bartolome – as we often say, the view from the top was worth every step and every breath taken on the way up. We saw many volcanic features: spatter and cinder cones and small lava tubes. And the colors were amazing – surprising really – the reddish tones of the older cones, beige tuff and a huge expanse of barren black lava that dates from 1897 contrasting with golden and white sand beaches, a swath of green mangrove shrubs and the azure ocean beyond.
Needless to say we deserved the bountiful breakfast buffet that we helped ourselves from once we were back on board. Afterwards I gave a snorkel safety and info session in the lounge and then we fitted everyone with snorkel equipment on the sky deck. By 10:30 a.m. we were boarding the pangas (that is the local name for our Zodiacs) and heading out to snorkel from the golden beach at Bartolome. The water was chilly, but heck – some of us saw penguins! Everyone went at their own speed and according to their water skills and we all had a delightful time. There were many colorful fish of a dozen different species, a white-tipped reef shark, and a large sting ray.
I hiked across the sand dune to the southern beach with Lys and my tocaya, Lynn. Taylor Butz our video chronicler accompanied us and we walked along the longer beach for almost an hour. We watched a great blue heron, bold, brilliantly colored Sally lightfoot crabs, and a juvenile hawk that hovered on the wind above our heads. The beach was pocked with sea turtle nests and I pointed out the tracks where dozens of hatchling turtles had rushed down to the sea the night before.
Lunch today was a grand affair with a suckling pig, fish in coconut sauce and a delicious variety of typical dishes from the Ecuadorian coast and highlands. A siesta was definitely in order after the meal. Meanwhile the National Geographic Islander reached a calm anchorage off the north shore of the red island of Rabida.
We had a choice of kayaking, snorkeling or a walk along the red beach as our first afternoon outings. The weather was warm and sunny and those who joined Gaby on shore enjoyed photographing sea lions, pelicans and fearless mockingbirds.
Walter took the kayakers for a long smooth paddle down the coast where they saw pelicans, sea lions, fur seals, and boobies. Jonathan and I took snorkeling groups into the cool water where we swam among zillions of fish of at least 20 different species. Highlights were seeing a couple of white-tipped reef sharks, a feeding marine iguana and playing with some really fun and graceful sea lions that swirled and twirled around us.
After a quick change out of our wetsuits we headed to shore and as the sun set behind the volcanoes of Isabela to the west. We walked among the sea lions and pelican on the rusty red beach. We’ve had a busy, full day with many diverse and interesting experiences and sights. This is only our second day – and actually our first full day – in the magical islands of the Galapagos Archipelago. The guests are wondering if we can keep up the pace and thrill them each day with new and special things. We can - we will - they will see… these are the islas encantadas and there is no place like them on earth!
