Waking up to humpbacks is one thing. Waking up to lunge-feeding humpbacks under soft morning light while flocks of red-necked phalaropes darted back and forth in the background and gangs of gulls circled overhead, is quite another. The circling gulls revealed the position of the next explosion of wildlife: gaping jaw, spray, baleen, and scattering bait fish. For over two hours we followed the birds and marveled at the whales. By the time we pulled away, we still had a full day ahead of us.

From our morning in the Bashke Islands, we pushed northeast through the Wrangell Narrows into the vibrant fishing community of Petersburg. Lined with docks, fishing vessels, and Norwegian heritage, this small community was our hub for a host of activities. From our first introduction to a muskeg environment (known as a bog in some parts of the world), to bike rides through town, to flights over the nearby LeConte Glacier, to organized “dock” walks and an opportunity to get a feel for daily life in this working town.

As we pulled away from Petersburg, a familiar sight on this trip arched overhead: our third full rainbow of the voyage. It ushered us to our wilderness adventures tomorrow in Endicott Arm and the glaciated fjord environment of southeast Alaska.