A light breeze blew in off the Pacific as we made our way to the mouth, or the boca, near Puerto Lopez Mateos. We spent most of the morning rising up and dropping down in gentle Pacific swells where as many as 50 gray whales entertained themselves, raising their heads straight up out of the water in a behavior called a spyhop. The tide was ebbing, and the current ran strong so no calves were around. We relocated for the afternoon to watch mothers and calves gently milling about.