Brugge, Belgium, 9/10/2016, National Geographic Orion
Aboard the
National Geographic Orion
Europe aboard NG Orion
Our streak of good weather continued into this morning as we disembarked at the port of Ostende under blue skies. From here it was a short half hour ride through the Belgian countryside to the city of Brugge (or Bruges, to use its French name). Considered something of a fairytale town with its canals, bridges, cobbled streets and churches, Bruges made its name as a merchant town and became extremely wealthy in the latter stages of the mediaeval period. We began with a walking tour following our arrival, beginning at the outskirts of the city and gradually making our way in through the beguinage, passing a large group of the town’s iconic swans. Once we made it to the town centre we boarded canal boats, the only vessels legally allowed to travel on its narrow canal system. From here we saw the city from a perspective not typically afforded to guests who remain on the streets, with many striking old buildings rising straight up from the waters. Balconies and various protruding structures overhang the canals, creating something of a cozy feeling in its crowdedness. After disembarking we continued to the town’s famous market square and went from there to lunch in 't Zwart Huis (The Black House). We had a typically Belgian meal of shellfish bisque and traditional Flanders stew. After this the group split. A number went cycling out in the local countryside while others enjoyed a chocolate making workshop. Others still opted to explore the alcoves, nooks and crannies of the city on their own. A sunny day in this iconic European city marked a perfect end to our exploration of Europe’s low countries before continuing on to our final destination of London, England.
Peter comes from the town of Cobh, County Cork, on the south coast of Ireland. He is both a working archaeologist and a naturalist. Growing up and living next to the sea, he developed a fascination with whales and dolphins, along with birds and the ...
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Ever since passing through the Kiel Canal on Monday, we have been travelling through the region of Europe known as the Low Countries. Today this usually refers to the modern states of Belgium, Luxembourg and the Netherlands (the Benelux countries), but the term has been in use for many centuries, long before these nations were named and their borders defined (of course the old name persists in the Netherlands, which means, literally, lowlands). In modern world affairs these are small nations, generally peripheral to the greater scope of geopolitics, but in the past the Low Countries were an important center of great art, a sponsor of many early voyages of exploration, the hub of the world’s first great financial network and a pivotal point in the great political and religious wars that swept across the continent for five centuries. Even today, in the busy cities and quiet towns we explored, in the monumental churches and world-class museums we visited and in the gracious people we met, there remain echoes of these generations of war and economic empire, fascinating traces of a terrible, glorious past. Through the morning we cruised the narrow channels between the low islands of Zeeland, still within the borders of the Netherlands, until we reached the busy canal that led us into the heart of Antwerp. From our berth, many of us simply strolled across the street for a walking tour of the old city center, including stops in the magnificent Cathedral of Our Lady and the Rubenshuis – the former home of the great painter Peter Paul Rubens. Our guides entertained us with many delightful stories of hidden details in both buildings and in the later afternoon we had the opportunity to entertain ourselves with further explorations, a noble undertaking that usually led directly to the nearest chocolate boutique! While we enjoyed Antwerp, some of our shipmates rode coaches to Brussels where the highlight was a visit to the Grand Palace and the Great Market square, gorgeous buildings which are the very distillation of Belgium’s rich history as the ‘Battleground of Europe’ and a dominant force in the global economy. The day was warm and sunny, but all of us could sense the stormy storm clouds of this small nation’s past, not far over the horizon.
As we cruised gently down the canals of Amsterdam, our guide explained, in her typically direct Dutch manner, that these beautiful, iconic waterways are like a toilet. Every day they are filled with the detritus of a major city … litter, random bicycles that fall from the sides of the canals and more. And every night, the locks are opened in a way that flushes out the dirty water and lets in the clean. I am part Dutch, lived in Amsterdam for a year of my life and have a fluent understanding of the language, but the flushing fact was just one of many new things I learned about Amsterdam today. For example, Amsterdam has the highest per capita “ foreign ” population in the world (meaning residents for whom neither parent was born in the country). It is the second most densely populated country after Bangladesh. And, three main things the Netherlands are known for aren ’ t actually native: tulips are from the Black Sea, windmills are from Persia, and Delft pottery comes originally from China. After we finished our exquisite appeltaart (Dutch apple pie), served with coffee and chocolates on the luxury canal cruise, we pulled up directly in front of the Rijksmuseum, the National Gallery of the Netherlands. Our experience there was short but well-curated to show off the best of what the museum has to offer, from the entrance tunnel filled with street musicians playing classical music, to the Gallery of Honor featuring renowned works by Jan Steen, Vermeer, and of course, Rembrandt. I had the amazing opportunity to spend six weeks in Amsterdam on my own earlier this summer, and visited the Rijksmuseum three times during my stay. Every time I went the weather happened to be stunning, with high temperatures and clear skies. Today was no exception. My father and I decided to enjoy every minute of the unusually gorgeous day and left the museum on foot, with Dutch fast food in mind as our destination. We walked over to our favorite frites stand, where we shared an “ oorlog ” (Dutch for “ war ” ): double fried french fries topped with dollops of mayonnaise, peanut flavored satay sauce, and chopped onions. The nearby fish stand served us the traditional raw herring (with pickles and onions, of course), along with some tasty “ kibbling, ” or pieces of fried cod. The afternoon activities today involved a range of unique locations. Some guests stayed in Amsterdam to see the Rijksmuseum if they ’ d visited the Anne Frank Museum that morning. Others went on a lovely bike ride in the Vecht region of the Netherlands, while I joined the group to Haarlem. While the weather could have made any experience enjoyable, the city was absolutely lovely in its own right. Our tour guide helped us navigate the bike lanes before showing us around the looming Bavo Cathedral and taking us down the cobblestone streets to the Frans Hals museum. Back in the bustling city of Amsterdam, we went as a group to the historical Dutch West Indisch House for a special musical performance by Izaline Calister, a singer from the Dutch Caribbean island of Cura ç ao. This evening was the first time in the last four years that Lindblad Expeditions had visited Amsterdam that the weather was nice enough to have our cocktails outside, and the music made it all the more enjoyable. Dinner was served inside in a gorgeous old room with large fireplace and glowing candelabras on all the tables that gave a truly unique ambiance to the night. As we sailed out of Amsterdam on the IJ River, I was comforted to imagine the canals of the city being cleaned that night. There ’ s one thing I know for sure: they are some of the most beautiful and enchanting canals in the world.