As if a morning could not get better, we were greeted by a blue sky with the rising sun, but this was not what caused our jaws to drop. With the wisdom that comes from experience, our expedition leader and Captain wagered that the spirit bear that we witnessed in twilight the evening before might very well return during the morning low tide – and return it did! This time in the full light of day, we witnessed the rare genetic anomaly of a spirit bear rummaging through the intertidal zone. Graced by the caretaker of Butedale coming onboard with his pup, Buddy, we leaned forward as he told us stories of the multiple visits that he enjoys from these rare mammals. With the sounds of cameras shuttering, and the joy of shared experience, we watched the bear for the better part of an hour before it journeyed up into the dense thicket of the forest.

The afternoon was one of exploration. Aiming for Lowe Inlet, National Geographic Sea Bird headed up the narrow passage to our anchorage and sent the guests ashore. It became rapidly apparent how quickly the tide was changing, soon revealing the fish trap that was set up to catch the seasonal salmon. Our naturalists headed into the woods with guests close behind to discover the temperate wonders that the rainforest allowed. Various fungus and spring flowers revealed themselves in the understory, and there were plenty of opportunities to photograph the nearby waterfall that was fed by the large lake above. Tomorrow we head for the legendary land of Haida Gwaii, but it is without a doubt that the waters of Canada’s Inside Passage have more than provided for us at the beginning of this journey.