Cape Adare and Robertson Bay, Victoria Land, 2/8/2023, National Geographic Endurance
Aboard the
National Geographic Endurance
Antarctica
Dawn broke dramatically with warm orange sunlight belying the cold conditions. Our first views of the Antarctic continent were breathtaking with the enormous Admiralty Mountains towering in the distance. Attempts to land at Cape Adare were aborted due to building swell and shifting ice. However, we found sheltered waters in the back of Robertson Bay for a very pleasant afternoon Zodiac cruise.
For as long as he can remember, Conor has always been preoccupied with the natural world, from the whales to the fungi. For most of his life he has been an islander: growing up in Cobh, Ireland and settling down in Tobermory in the Hebrides, Scotland...
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This morning there is once again water as far as the eye can see, and the Drake Passage has not lived up to its intimidating reputation. The sun came out in glorious form and we watched it paint the tops of the waves with orange light. Land Ho! South America has been spotted. Soon the green covered hills of Tierra Del Fuego were clearly seen. Gone are the ice-covered hills, the glaciers, and tabular icebergs. Before us are trees, sea birds, and hints of a town. Black-browed albatross and blue-eyed shags guide us toward the tip of South America as if to help us transition from the life we have lived these past weeks back to the lives we previously knew. How to share what we just experienced with those we love who have not been a part of it is a quandary we all face. How many of our photos do we share to convey the magic? Will anyone honestly understand how we felt being there? Will anyone notice that we have been deeply changed by this past month in Antarctica? And the question that we all ask ourselves, will we be able to keep this experience close to our hearts? “Dolphin!”, someone cries out. Our inner thoughts disappear as Peale’s dolphins bow ride our ship. Then the blows of sei whales are seen and we spend the rest of the afternoon watching their sharp dorsal fins cut the surface of the sea. The ship moves on as life moves on. Our trip is coming to an end. The Beagle channel opens its arms and welcomes us back. Fair winds and following seas fellow travelers.
As we left Antarctica, the day was kind to us. The waters of the Drake Passage were as calm as I have seen them. We sailed in calm seas with fog in the distance. We had a later morning and a brunch filled with every possible delicious delight awaited us sleepy travelers. The bridge, which had been so active with all of us looking for whales and birds day after day, was now quiet. Conor Ryan and Eduardo Shaw still looked out the windows for wildlife as the watery world flowed by. Presentations by Deb Goodwin on the geology of Antarctica and Jamie Coleman on seabird threats, their predators and diseases, gave us food for thought. Teatime took a wonderful, unexpected turn of becoming a wine and cheese extravaganza. We joined our new friends in conversation whenever we encountered them on stairways and in the lounge, or while returning boots to base camp or perusing the gift shop. Outside the sun broke through the dim fog and produced a glowing, foggy bow. Tomorrow is predicted to have the same calm seas as today. The Drake Passage is giving us a gentle reentry from the wilderness to the world of people, schedules, and planes.
I cannot think of a better way to finish this EPIC Antarctica voyage than visiting these two wonderful places known for their glacial landscapes of incredible beauty. The approach to Paradise Harbour was self-explanatory based on the name given to this place by whalers of a bygone era. Once the Zodiacs were in the water, we went exploring the many coves and bays. The few exposed rocks and colourful cliffs nearby revealed swards of moss, crustose lichens, and some even spotted Antarctic hairgrass! The flora of Antarctica is so minute that it is exciting to get a glimpse of these masters of adaptation that live in a frozen environment. In the afternoon we sailed into Andvord Bay, a huge fjord of about 9 miles long with stunning scenery. A group of crabeater seals shared a large icefloe during siesta time, undisturbed by our presence. The reflections of glaciers and icebergs in the water was mesmerizing and at times was interrupted by rafts of gentoo penguins swimming by. Icebergs of different shapes and sizes completed this serene scene that will stay in our memories for a long time. When we thought that moment could not be topped, we watched dozens of humpback whales surface lunge feeding, splashing the water with their pectoral fins. Goodbye for now, Antarctica!
