The early light off Cabo San Lucas played over the iconic granite arch at Land’s End while several humpback whales fluked nearby. Streams of sport fishing boats headed out for the day as we turned the corner into a new adventure. Welcome to the Sea of Cortez!
Fresh water is life itself, and in the desert that becomes most apparent. The oasis at San Jose del Cabo supports thousands of palm trees year round, as well as migrant birds and nearly half a million people. Water brought the Jesuits here in 1794 hoping to create an agricultural society that would attract the nomadic native population into the stable fold of Christianity. The estuary we visited attracts some special avian visitors—most notably, the first ever greater white-fronted geese that arrived a few weeks ago. They nest far north in low tundra and have an even longer migration than our beloved California gray whales!
After lunch, we headed into a stiff northerly breeze searching for humpback whales and soon found a group of four males competing for a female’s favors—the group increased to six and finally nine! The whales traveled fast through the blue water, turning and throwing their flukes. Then abruptly the breaching competition began. One whale, sometimes two and once three whales, exploded out of the sea over and over again. We cheered them on, attempting to photograph each beautiful flying 45-ton animal twisting through the atmosphere. It was an incredible, stunning and exquisite display of strength and beauty. What unbelievable good luck we had there on the bow, witnessing for one magic hour a sight we shall never forget.
