Sails were set by 0830 this morning, with light northeasterly winds in the Tyrrhenian Sea off the north coast of Sicily giving us a relaxing southerly sail. We could make out the pyramidal shape of the dormant volcano Alicudi in the distant northeast, which is part of the Aeolian Islands that we will visit tomorrow. National Geographic photographer Massimo Bassano gave a talk on the history of the National Geographic Society and the secrets of success over the last 128 years, clarifying some of the priorities and achievements of the Society. There were plenty of questions about the current state of the Society and the purchase of the media interests by 21st Century Fox, and Massimo gave us a lot of reassuring details about the “National Geographic Partners” joint ventures that put some of us a little more at ease.
During Massimo’s talk the wind died completely, so we found ourselves becalmed 20 miles off our afternoon destination of Cefalu. We motored in to anchor off this gorgeous headland that inspired the name Cephalu from the Greek word “kephalo” for “head.” The large and imposing 12th-century Norman Castle dominates the old town at the base of the west face of La Rocca, and makes Cefalu one of the prettiest towns in Sicily.
A perplexing announcement from the harbormaster requiring us to land our Zodiacs in a modern marina far from the old town caused all kinds of anxiety, negotiation, gesticulations of all types, and more negotiation, but finally reason prevailed and we took Zodiacs into the old port for a beautiful afternoon walk on the cobblestone streets. Some of us opted to hike up the steep trail to the top of La Rocca after the walking tour, while others settled in for a waterfront glass of wine.
We kept Zodiac shuttles going through the evening until 2300, so we could see the town in its beautiful evening illumination. Mediterranean towns in general come alive after sunset, and some of us took the opportunity to dine ashore, where the highlight of the scenery was Sea Cloud anchored in the bay.
