We started the day in Idaho Inlet. This notch in Chicagof Island’s northern coast in a good place to look for fuzzy creatures on land or in the sea. We found a feeding frenzy of gulls, perhaps dining on a school of herring.
After breakfast we went ashore at Fox Creek. Much of this area is literally new land, beach swales lifted by isostatic rebound. Dainty deer tracks laced the beach. Bright shooting stars and musky chocolate lilies bobbed among the ferns. Once in the forest we walked trails once used by bears under spruces owned by feisty squirrels. Meanwhile, others were out in kayaks, finding quiet and solitude in the splendid wildness of this part of the world.
During lunch we cruised to a quiet anchorage among the Inian Islands. Tides race through Icy Strait and Cross Sound as they empty and fill northern Southeast Alaska. Around the Inians currents are particularly fierce. While potentially dangerous, these currents stir nutrients to the sunlit surface, driving a food chain of impressive richness.
We hopped into our rubber boats for a close look at the Inians. We shot past steep cliff topped by spruces, found an active eagle nest, and then approached the rocks where sea lions haul out. Steller sea lions are the world’s largest, with bulls often reaching 1500 pounds. We saw many of these big fellows. Some reared up, imperiously, at the top of some rock, surrounded by smaller ‘lions, like a king among minions. Others reclined with solitary insouciance. Smaller sea lions crowded together in noisy smelly scrums, writhing and caterwauling. Clearly they enjoy each other’s company and at the same time are annoyed by it. The Inians are a good place for sea otters. Engagingly active, these richest of fur-bearers are constantly busy preening and finding food to stay warm in chilly seas. Most saw at least something of this clam-chowing super weasel. Some of us found puffins or wheeling groups of fishing eagles.
During dinner we had special guests. Killer whales were spotted! Most bolted down our meals in order to get out to watch the whales. No doubt the salmon-eating variety of whales, these swam slowly along in a tight group. Their tall fins were magnificent in the bright evening sun.
Killer whales are always a special find, even in Alaska. Spending time with them was a fitting way to conclude our day in Southeast Alaska’s wildest and richest waters.
