We set anchor at Cuverville Island in the Errera Channel this morning just in time to finish one more cup of coffee and enjoy an extra pastry. Peering out the window it looked to be another amazing day of weather. The calm water in the Errara mirrored the surrounding peaks and glaciers. The icebergs appeared superimposed against a reflection of mountain and sky. Water this calm just begged for a day of kayaking. The kayak platform was assembled as everyone geared up for another day off the West Antarctic Peninsula. Several souls braved the icy clear waters to paddle through this serene peaceful landscape. Others ventured ashore to mingle with the gentoo penguins and climb the ridge for a better vantage point. The views were stunning in absolutely every direction, including down.
As the last kayaks glided onto the platform and the shore party returned from the penguin colony we sat down to lunch and a slow cruise out Errara Channel. We were bound for the Lemaire Channel, but Gerlache Strait had other plans for us. At around 3:00pm we came upon a group of about 30 Type A Antarctic killer whales and not just any type A’s, famous ones! One of the large males in the group was identified by researcher John Durban to be the same male that was featured running down an Antarctic minke whale in the BBC’s Frozen Planet in 2010. We asked for an autograph, but unfortunately he declined... With everyone on the bow, in the bridge or at a window, the whales continued to surface off the port side of the ship, sometimes coming directly under the bow! It was a fantastic encounter, set to the backdrop of shutter releases rapidly firing. However, soon and somewhat reluctantly, we had to turn the ship back south to make it to The Lemaire Channel before dinner.
The Lemaire is often said to be the most scenic waterway in all of Antarctica and for the better part of this season it has been choked with ice. Fortunately, National Geographic Explorer is a highly rated ice-class vessel, which means it has a strong, reinforced hull. In addition she is currently captained by an Antarctic Veteran, Captain Leif Skog, who first went to sea in 1967 and has been captaining vessels in the Antarctic since 1979. Thanks to this sturdy ship and our amazing captain, not only did we get to enjoy the captivating grandeur of The Lamaire, Captain Skog continued to push through the ice all the way to 65°16.798 S 64°15.895 W! This feat marks the furthest point south any vessel has made it to date this season! Bravo Captain Skog!
The calm seas and light winds persisted as the sun dipped lower towards the horizon. After a long, exciting day we are now headed back north escorted by the evening reflections bathed in beautiful warm light. It’s 11:00 pm and there are still people out and about trying to soak up their last few days on the White Continent. I wonder what Antarctica will deliver us tomorrow?
