The early morning was quiet after the festivities of last night. We woke to a new year. Amid blurry eyes and yawns we headed out in kayaks offshore of Cuverville Island. Gentoo penguins swam by and Antarctic skuas flew over brilliant blue icebergs. The sky went from bright and sunny to overcast in minutes. Big snowflakes fell, making the scene one of wonderment. The icebergs looked even bluer in the flat light of the snowfall. What a way to start the year!

On land the gentoo penguins were very busy. They are mountain climbers! The rookeries are all on the land free of snow first. These places tend to be atop the high hills, so up the penguins walk and we, on our own trail went up after them. When we arrived on shore, steps had been cut out of the snow for us to be able to climb up the nine-foot (3m) snow bank. Penguins walked the beach looking up at the snow bank and cautiously eyeing our steps. They have an alternate path around the other side of the island but seemed reluctant to go there. Instead they chose to linger on the beach preening and waddling in the shallows. Meanwhile we peered at brooding parents tending eggs on their pebble nests.

All too soon it was time to leave. Life vests were fastened and Zodiacs of happy folks headed back to our ship. We had not even gone halfway down the beach to the Zodiac when 10 gentoo penguins headed up our steps! Obviously they were waiting for us to leave.

On the way to Neko Harbor the snow fell lightly again. We headed to the beach where two fat Weddell seals slept away the day. Crowds of gentoos carefully walked down the hillside in deep trenches cut into the snow. These trenches were of their own making. Everyday the braying parents exchange nest-sitting duty. They walk up these paths and then down again and then back up and on and on for over two months. These penguins have only been at it for 30 days or so but the paths are so deeply worn that one can barely see their heads over the top of the snow. In similar fashion, some of the daring among us slid down a human-made slide in the snow.

Tonight the light is spectacular. The sun is out at 10 p.m. The long light is glistening on the hilltops and throwing blue hues across the icebergs in shadow while the ones in the light seem to be illuminated from within. We rest peacefully tonight, grateful, grateful, grateful.