Our day aboard the National Geographic Explorer at Cuverville Island began at the northern end of Errara Channel. A low ceiling hung over the channel, and its calm waters enticed many guests into kayaks for the first time on the voyage. As the paddlers cruised among the floating blue ice, they witnessed a glacier calve multiple times, each with a thunderous boom as new icebergs were formed. The island also offered opportunities to observe several small gentoo penguin colonies, one of which was perched high up on a bluff. We watched patiently as several brown skuas sat lazily among the uneasy penguins, waiting for the chance to steal an egg. But the penguins prevailed and eventually the skuas flew off, without a meal, to harass the other colonies.

In the afternoon, we traveled to Orne Harbour and landed our Zodiacs at Spigot peak on the Antarctic Peninsula proper. The most intrepid among us climbed atop a 1,000-foot hill with a stunning vista of the surrounding waters and a glacier being monitored by the Extreme Ice Survey. The view was shared by a small colony of chinstrap penguins that appreciated it as much as we did (or so we liked to think). Far below, other guests in Zodiacs were treated to a close encounter with a Weddell seal. For several minutes, the seal floated in the shallows, looking back at the excited travelers, before slipping below the surface and out of sight.

After cruising the harbour in awe of perhaps the most stunning scenery so far, we returned to the ship for dinner and some time to relax. During our evening Recap, we were informed that we would be treated to an additional landing. Danco Island, with yet another inspiring vista and several gentoo penguin colonies, capped a day of icy adventure. As guests made their way back down the hill—many opting to slide down, penguin-style—they were greeted at the bottom with warm glogg (Scandinavian spiced wine) and a soft evening light.