Drake Passage, 12/29/2018, National Geographic Explorer
Aboard the
National Geographic Explorer
Antarctica
Today we experienced the rare “Drake Lake” – an infrequent event where the Drake Passage is calm and merciful. While it provided comfort to most on board, it made bird-spotting somewhat difficult. After all, the birds which inhabit this normally ferocious sea rely on strong winds to take to the air in search of food. While the abundance of birds was low, we documented an impressive 13 species. Tonight we cross the Antarctic Convergence Zone and push south of 60 degrees and into Antarctic waters.
For as long as he can remember, Conor has always been preoccupied with the natural world, from the whales to the fungi. For most of his life he has been an islander: growing up in Cobh, Ireland and settling down in Tobermory in the Hebrides, Scotland...
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This morning, we entered the Weddell Sea after exploring the western side of the peninsula for the past few days. The icy scenery was enjoyed by all. As we ship-cruised in the morning, the expedition staff provided us with some insightful presentations on glaciers and marine mammal acoustics. The hotel department then surprised us all with a BBQ feast for lunch and some delicious donuts for dessert. The afternoon activities included a landing at Brown Bluff where we enjoyed observing the Adelie penguin colony. We then returned to National Geographic Resolution and began sailing deeper south into the Weddell Sea.
National Geographic Endurance journeyed south through the Gerlache Strait today, braving heavy winds and waves that shattered against towering icebergs. The raw power of Antarctica was on full display this morning. By afternoon, we reached the more tranquil expanse of Wilhelmina Bay, where sea ice stretched to the base of the surrounding peaks. The conditions shifted, and while the wind remained strong, the skies cleared revealing a stunning sunlit landscape. On snowshoes and cross-country skis, we explored the frozen expanse, much like the early explorers. Although, they were clad in reindeer skin, wooden skis, and sledges and we have high-tech gear and iPhones. Were they enchanted by its beauty, or humbled by the pristine vastness of the Antarctic Peninsula? After our vigilant (but decidedly comfortable) snow adventure, we returned to the ship for yet another gourmet meal and a soak in the hot tub. Not exactly roughing it by any stretch. This place is magical, and skiing across a frozen ocean with the backdrop of Antarctic mountains is enough to humble anyone.
This morning Captain Martin drove National Geographic Resolution into the fast ice in Charlotte Bay, and we spent the morning walking and skiing on the frozen sea. What a thrill it was! In a few days or weeks, this sea ice will break up and disappear, as it does every spring. In the afternoon we kayaked, and then the hearty among us did the polar plunge – brrr!!
