At midnight we had crossed the Antarctic Convergence (or Polar Front), a bio-geographical boundary with a sudden drop in sea temperature which meant that we were now truly in the Antarctic environment. Anticipation mounted as we continued southwards across final stretches of the Drake Passage towards our initial destination, the South Shetland Islands, accompanied for a while by a light-mantled sooty albatross. Our first iceberg had been spotted in the early hours of the morning, and more icy wonders awaited us shortly. The morning, however, was an opportunity to learn more about the wonderful nature of the continent we were approaching with an inspiring presentation by Tom Ritchie. Then it was the turn of the photo instructor team to prepare us to take our best ever images.
Soon there was the perfect chance to put our new-found knowledge to use. Breaching humpbacks whales made a spectacle around the ship, but then a large and beautiful iceberg with a spell-binding natural arch came into sight. We were also thrilled to glimpse our first penguins, both gentoos and chinstraps, standing on the ice at the foot of the iceberg.
Arriving at the South Shetlands, we were in good time for a landing on Barrientos Island in the Aitcho Island group. This small volcanic island was bursting with life as we set foot ashore, with colonies of nesting penguins everywhere from the shore to the hill top. Both chinstraps and gentoos were sitting on nests built of small stones and, while some still contained eggs, most had one or usually two grey downy hungry chicks snuggled at their feet. Adult birds went back and forth from the sea, full of food for the growing young, or occasionally carrying an extra stone for the nest. Skuas swooped overhead, looking for an unguarded egg or chick, while the pure white snowy sheathbills darted to and fro among the colonies. Giant petrels also made a magnificent sight overhead.
An obliging young elephant seal lay hauled out on the beach among the busy penguins and some ancient whale bones, languidly observing us as we finally gathered to depart from the island. It was a rich and exciting start to our great Antarctic adventure.
