Durres is Albania’s largest commercial port, and it was already a hugely important port for the ancient Greeks as Epidamnos and the Romans as the city of Dyrrachium. Today it serves as the gateway to the interior and the modern capital of Tirane. Our focus, however, was a drive further inland to the dramatic limestone escarpment of the Dinar Mountains and the ancient medieval capital of Kruje. Home of 15th-century national hero George Kastrioti Skanderbeg, the castle houses two fascinating museums, many medieval walls and towers, and an active medieval market on its rugged cobblestone streets.