Land Ho! Early this morning we confirmed with our own eyes what our navigational instruments have been telling us all along…that South Georgia lay directly ahead of National Geographic Explorer. The northwest end of the island emerged from the mist as a stark and snow-capped series of mountain peaks, surrounded by a skirt of rolling ocean. Grey-headed and black-browed albatross seemingly led the ship right to the first anchorage of our time here, Elsehul (Norwegian for Else Cove).
While some chose to hike and climb amongst the tussac to view albatross nests, others opted to enjoy the wildlife from water level via Zodiac, and what wildlife there was to be had! Literally hundreds and hundreds of pintado (cape) petrels as well as Antarctic terns were feeding from the ocean’s surface. King, gentoo, and macaroni penguin breeding colonies were all well established.
Elephant seals are finishing up their breeding season, and many weaner pups are testament to the breeding success of the species. Antarctic fur seal males are coming ashore in advance of the females to settle territorial disputes with other males about just who gets what real estate on the beach (and the females that go with that real estate).
Albatross and South Georgia shags wheel overhead, busily preparing to have and raise chicks in the short summer season. The profundity of life in this picturesque little bay is absolutely astounding, and we drank it in as deeply as we could.
Afternoon found us in Right Whale Bay, making a landing amongst more elephant seals, Antarctic fur seals, king penguins, and northern and southern giant petrels. The beach was full of unfolding stories, dramas as well as comedies being played out right before our eyes. Birth and death were on display in gripping detail, better than any blockbuster movie we had left back home.
To visit South Georgia in the springtime is to truly see the battle for life itself. The sight, the sound, and even the smell are all here in abundance, and it is up to us each individually to absorb it as best we can.
