Today we bathed in liquid sunshine and renewed our spirits on the last day of our expedition together – Cassidy O'Bryant, Assistant Expedition Leader
In other words, yes, there was rain. And then there was more rain. Did I say rain? Yes indeed. Rain. But our day began with gray clouds and a search for humpback whales as the region endured a drought of a couple of hours. We crossed the terminal moraine at the entrance of Endicott Arm and scanned the shoreline for wildlife. A pair of bald eagles made an appearance, resting idly on a brilliant turquoise bergy bit. Camera shutters frantically clicked as we made a slow pass. Shortly after breakfast, the skies began to share their plentiful moisture and chased most folks inside to nurse their woes with hot chocolate and cider. The view outside, however, was spectacular as we experienced the true Southeast Alaska vistas: gray clouds scudding around forested ridgelines, occasional gray mountaintops appearing, gray rain falling on gray water. While a reader who has not visited this part of the world may think this a dull way to travel, allow me to assure you it is beautiful in its subtlety and surprises. Late in the morning, we cruised along the entrance of Ford's Terror and had a chance to observe the raging whitewater rapids squeezing through the narrow rocky entrance. Truly, Ford must have been terrorized when he rowed through on a surveying trip over a century ago.
Following lunch, we embarked on afternoon operations. This was about the same time the weather gods cackled in glee and unleashed their full fury on our innocent expedition landing craft. Huddled in sadly insufficient rain gear, we shivered as mild katabatic winds rushed down off the ice of Dawes glacier. But wow! The views! Towers of ice, shooters of ice rising from the depths, ice all around our boats. Ice tinkling, ice exploding super-compressed air bubbles, ice with seals perched atop. Waterfalls cascaded down from every high place and arctic terns graced the skies. After a few hours of frigid enjoyment, we turned tail to the ice and headed back to the ship for hot showers, hot drinks, and a sweet evening of fond farewells. And more rain.
