It was a busy and adventurous day aboard National Geographic Sea Bird. The early morning found us entering the gaping mouth of Endicott Arm, a large, glacier-carved fjord located within the Tracy Arm-Fords Terror Wilderness. After breakfast, kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding were on the agenda, and in the afternoon, we enjoyed amazing small-boat cruises though the bergy bit-strewn waters of the fjord. The sound of “white thunder” echoed off the rock faces as we watched impressive chunks of ice calving from the 250-foot-high face of Dawes Glacier. Around sunset, we cruised out of the fjord and toasted our memorable week, discovering the miracles of Southeast Alaska.