I was up very early this morning in order to make a few phone calls. A few phone calls you say? Just to the five cabins that had signed up the evening before for an early-bird kayak outing along the basalt bluffs of Gardner Bay. In the islands we are not allowed to place the kayaks on shore (besides which, the breakers, though small, would be hellish to deal with), so we have developed a wonderful method for embarking from Zodiacs. Off we went on placid waters, paddling leisurely. We saw a sea lion swim underneath one kayak, marine turtles pop their heads out of the water, admired the enormous prickly pear cacti trees on top of the cliffs, heard Española mockingbirds sing from above, and felt the day start to heat up as the sun rose quickly on the equator.
After breakfast and after a briefing on snorkeling, we split into two groups. A couple of Zodiacs went deep-water snorkeling over by Gardner Islet where sea lions and colorful fish were captured in our memories and memory cards. On the beach we had a group of folks who wanted to refresh their snorkeling skills and some even to learn for the first time. Everyone did really well! I think we are set for the rest of the week, now. Of course the beach itself is unique, even for Galapagos. It has azure waters, white sand and dark, shiny sea lion bodies basking, some in the shallows, some on shore.
Lunch should be mentioned today because the galley went all-out and cooked up an incredible array of foodstuffs from Andes, the tropical coastal plains of western south America. Most items were completely new to many…ceviche Ecuadorian-style, llapingachos, manioc bread, chifles, mellocos, tomate de arbol sorbet…and my favorite dessert, alfajores.
After a needed siesta, our on-board Photo Instructor gave a very useful presentation to our aspiring photographers (and some very accomplished ones as well). It was all in preparation for the afternoon expedition ashore at the westernmost point of land called “Punta Suarez”. A loop trail leads through some of the most extraordinary wildlife breeding grounds, including sea lions colonies. It always provides amazing photo opportunities due to the sea lions’ great personalities-some seem grumpy, others sound asleep, and the youngsters always causing disturbances.
Española marine iguanas are renowned for their coloration and at this time of year the females have a greenish-blue coloration running down their backs and forearms as they are digging, guarding and defending nesting sites from other females. Combined with the normal reddish hue on their flanks, they are quite outstanding. Swallow-tailed gulls, red-billed tropicbirds, Nazca boobies all had their moment of fame and attention from everyone. But the real star of the afternoon was the Galapagos waved albatross. They have arrived to the island of Española after being absent for almost three months wandering the Pacific Ocean. The males are courting the females, the females are looking for their mates, and everyone is in the intense mode for breeding because the time is right. Eggs are being laid these days, because chicks must be fledged by December when the southeast trade winds weaken, and perhaps disappear entirely for another few months. This place is another world, difficult to imagine. Not an easy world, not an idyllic world either. It requires survival tactics about which we have no idea, and strategies we have only begun to understand.
Just after sunset everyone was back onboard. The twelve hours of darkness on the equator are a relief in many ways. It gives us time to absorb the impressions, sounds and images of the day. It also allows us to download our images and charge-up our batteries (literally and metaphorically speaking).
After dinner we made use of a few more minutes in our long day for Jason to give a talk on the geologic origins of the archipelago…basalt, and more basalt. And so much more than just that, in formation and time and meaning.
Good night!
