September is usually a cold month in the Galápagos Islands; however, today’s weather looked promising with mild air and water temperatures. In the early morning we dropped anchor at Gardner Bay, north of Española Island. This is one of the oldest islands of the archipelago, with low elevations and vast arid zone, and it is home to various endemic species that are only found on this island. Gardner Beach was visible from our anchorage; its white, fine coralline sands and turquoise waters make it one of the most beautiful beaches in the Galápagos. This site is the perfect home to a colony of Galápagos sea lions, many of which either played in the shallows or rested on the sand. Not far from the beach lies Gardner Islet; its southern coast is surrounded by calm, crystal-clear waters that are perfect to practice snorkeling. The conditions were therefore perfect to enjoy the underwater world of the islet: there were large schools of fish like the razor surgeons, salemas and creole fish. Many small, marine invertebrates cover the walls of this shoreline, and when you look in detail their colors are simply spectacular. And of course, the Galápagos sea lions made an appearance and entertained everyone with their pirouettes and amazing swimming and diving skills. What a treat!

In the afternoon, we navigated west and dropped anchor off Punta Suárez, one of the highlights of the Galápagos. This small peninsula protrudes into the sea and is teaming with life. As soon as we set foot at Punta Suárez we were amazed by the number of creatures that inhabit this place, and we had to be really careful not to step on the very well camouflaged marine iguanas, which had just returned from their favorite foraging spot on the rocks. The iguanas need to regain their optimum body temperature in order to digest the algae that they eat, so they bask in the sun for the remainder of the day. The trail took us through the nesting areas of the local Nazca boobies, and we also walked past a female blue-footed booby that was looking after her young chick. Española is the only island preferred by the endemic waved albatross for nesting; many of them were courting and dancing in preparation for their next breeding season. As we returned back to our landing spot, we walked past a couple of white beaches where several female Galápagos sea lions rested while they nursed their newborn pups. This is a magical place where creatures are oblivious to our presence, and we soon realize that we have fallen under the spell of the Enchanted Isles.