As we awaken and venture out into the crisp air surrounding Española Island, we encounter inviting turquoise water below. Española Island is one of the oldest in Galapagos, low-lying and drab from a distance, although it has an interesting diversity of wildlife found nowhere else on earth. We start our day by exploring the underwater world, snorkeling around a small satellite island and from the beach at Gardner Bay. There is an incredible clarity to the water, with a sandy bottom allowing the reflection of light to produce all of the blues in the spectrum. Large schools of razor surgeonfish pass as they forage along the rocky reef in the shallows. An occasional sea lion passes, blowing bubbles and swimming circles around us, as we appear to be acceptable as playmates for the young pups. A white-tipped reef shark passes a large marbled ray, various spiny lobsters hide in the dark under boulders, and a tiger snake eel searches for small invertebrates in the sand. Pacific green sea turtles and spotted eagle rays cruise by, as an hour and a half passes incredibly quickly.
Kayakers explore the coast, as others walk the length of a brilliantly white coralline sand beach and laze among the sea lions. It feel almost as if we are on another planet, as we are accepted by the wildlife. A young sea lion rolls onto a beach towel, while Española mockingbirds fight over territory, and an occasional pacific green sea turtle pops its head above the surface for a breath of fresh air.
The afternoon brings more surprises, as we land on the western part of the island at Suarez point. Cobbled basalt boulders welcome our hikers, as Darwin finches flit about in front of us and colorful marine iguanas bask in the sun. As we head out onto the trail, it is difficult to comprehend the amount of life in this area. Nazca boobies nest along the cliffs, struggling for survival, and the occasional red-billed tropic bird screeches overhead. The southern cliffs of Espanola release mist as the southern swell beats the coast, and the air traffic over head is astonishing. Waved albatross, Galapagos hawks, swallow-tailed gulls and doves make the sky a blur of life. As the sun dips into the abyss, we reflect on this extraordinary day, and these experiences which will change us forever.
