We woke up to our last expedition day as National Geographic Explorer was gliding smoothly into the inner parts of Kangerlussuatsiaq fjord (Danish: Evighedsfjorden, ”the fjord of eternity”). This fjord got its name because of the nearly endless number of branches along its main course. Once you think you have gotten to the head of the fjord, you find out that there is yet another fjord inside, and then another, and so it continues.

The sunny weather and calm seas allowed for a variety of outdoor activities. Kayaking tempted many, whereas other guests preferred hiking, a Zodiac cruise, or a combination of the two. The hikers headed into Paradisdalen (”Paradise valley”). This valley has a richer vegetation cover than other places we have seen along the East Greenland coast. The hikers found lots of dwarf birch, some of which had already turned into autumn colors. There were also crowberries, blueberries, mushrooms, and a variety of lichens along the way. Like most of the other uninhabited parts of Greenland, this fjord area has maintained its stunning, pristine character.

After lunch, a departure breefing was given, followed by Jason Kelley´s presentation, Who Owns the Arctic? In the late afternoon the photo team offered useful instruction on how to post-process photos.

This last day of exploration was rounded off with the Captain´s Farewell Cocktail Party in the lounge. The traditional guest Slideshow contained an impressive variety of highlights and joyful moments to remember. During these two weeks we have shared some extraordinary encounters with marine and landbased Arctic wildlife. We have hiked in pristine wilderness and learned about geology and the history of Norse and Inuit cultures. We have also met friendly locals along our way. At the same time we have seen how the disappearance of sea ice and Greenland’s melting ice cap is posing a growing threat to the Arctic ecosystem and the people who depend on its productivity. After such a remarkable journey in the high north we have gotten new insights and hopefully something meaningful to tell our folks and friends at home.