Today, after a long navigation, we reached the most remote areas of the Enchanted Islands. Fernandina and Isabela are known as the youngest islands of the archipelago, and the silhouettes of their majestic shield volcanoes surrounded us. We set foot on Fernandina, and more precisely, at Punta Espinosa. Located in the northeastern tip of this island, it is the only visitors' site.
Fernandina is a very special island: There are vast black lava flows all over it, and life seems to have just started here. Because of its youth, there is little soil formation and there is hardly any fresh water, so it is definitely a very hostile environment for most organisms. However, some have succeeded in colonizing this place, and not long after landing we realized that there is an unusual abundance of marine iguanas. Larger than anywhere else in the archipelago, they spend their lives between their favorite basking spots and the excellent foraging areas of the adjacent coast. The aggregation of marine iguanas was certainly breathtaking, a real surprise at the beginning but the more we walked the more iguanas we found.
The tidal pools of the area are also magnificent, and they harbor many marine turtles that seek peace and tranquility after their long travels. A small colony of Galapagos sea lions inhabits this area, and there were a few very young pups that had been left behind by their mothers; they spend the daytime in the safety of the tidal pools, away from strong currents and predators. Another species commonly found here (but uncommon anywhere else) is the flightless cormorant. This is a unique species endemic to the coasts of Fernandina and the western coast of Isabela. This is a species that has totally lost its ability to fly in order to become a more efficient diver.
In the afternoon, our ship repositioned to reach a different visitors site. Punta Vicente Roca is part of Isabela Island, and it is part of the external flanks of Ecuador Volcano. The tall cliffs are quite stunning, and the area is full of life. Upon sighting its abrupt coastline, we could see various marine birds, including Nazca boobies and swallow-tailed gulls. On some huge rocks and also high up some slopes we spotted Galapagos fur sea lions. This is the second species of sea lion that inhabit the Enchanted Isles; once heavily hunted because of their beautiful fur, they have now made a comeback and are found in various spots on the coast. During the first part of the afternoon, we had the most amazing opportunity to snorkel at this very important foraging site for the Eastern Pacific green sea turtles. This is a resident breeder of the islands, and here we could spot them by the dozens, either feeding on seaweed or simply resting on the sandy bottom of the bay. We had a chance to return here in our dry clothes and with cameras in hand to photograph the stunning landscapes of Punta Vicente Roca and its amazing wildlife: flightless cormorants, Galapagos sea lions, brown noddy terns, Nazca boobies, Galapagos penguins. They are all part of the magic of the Enchanted Islands.
Back on board, it was time to enjoy a glass of champagne to celebrate the crossing of the equator and yet another wonderful sunset in the Galapagos Islands. Salud!
