We are surrounded by the magic of the western islands once again. Dolphins showed up at sunrise, signaling a day of pure enchantment, and enchantment we had indeed. From sea turtles to marine iguanas in the tidal pools of Fernandina Island, from Galapagos hawks on top of mangroves to baby sea lions playing at the beach, we had a fabulous morning that transported us to the very beginning of this archipelago.
The youngest and westernmost island in the Galapagos and the largest pristine island in the whole world, those are some of the attributes of Fernandina, a place that touches one’s heart forever. What can be more appealing than walking on a lava flow that is not older than 200 years old? Or observing an American oystercatcher pair attending their bright new nest containing two speckled eggs that will soon become the loveliest hatchlings? Walking Fernandina’s trails, we learned about pioneer plants, like lava cacti and mangroves, about the naivetés of its species due to the lack of many predators. This is an open book of life and geology, and one of the jewels in the crown of the Galapagos.
But the western realm isn’t just about Fernandina. We crossed to Isabela at its northwestern corner to enjoy an immersion in the world of sea turtles at Punta Vicente Roca. Most of our guests jumped in the waters to have close encounters with this species, not unique to the islands, but certainly very special. During a Zodiac ride we admired the area from a different perspective, seeing tuff volcanoes, a cave resulting from erosion, lava dikes, columnar basalt—all inhabited by penguins, brown noddy terns and boobies.
Right at sunset we crossed the equator line. We had “pirates” on board and celebrated with champagne, laughs and friendship. Then we turned around and found the moon up in the sky, as bright as the sun but irradiating a distinctive light. And so we saw the same volcanoes and the sea and the ship, beautifully and differently transformed by moonlight. This is magic!
