Fortuna Bay & Stromness Bay, 11/23/2022, National Geographic Endurance
Aboard the
National Geographic Endurance
Antarctica
Today was our final day in South Georgia. The dawn broke gradually with a heavy fog and rain. Captain Aaron Wood navigated the ship very close to the shore at Stromness, allowing us to observe the constant fracas between male fur seals. Right beside the males, sleepy females nursed their newborn pups. We headed out to sea in the morning, bound for the Falkland Islands.
For as long as he can remember, Conor has always been preoccupied with the natural world, from the whales to the fungi. For most of his life he has been an islander: growing up in Cobh, Ireland and settling down in Tobermory in the Hebrides, Scotland...
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Our second day at sea after leaving the landscape of Antarctica, we awoke to a gentle rolling ocean and sunshine. The waves were bedazzled with blue petrels, sooty shearwaters, black-browed and wandering albatross. Midmorning, National Geographic Explorer was granted permission to enter the three-mile radius of Cape Horn. We headed to the bow, the bridge, and the monkey deck to experience the wind and take in the views. Ezra spoke of the history of the landscape and sailing this notorious rough ocean, whilst other staff members recited the “Poem of the Albatross”, in both English and Spanish. By late afternoon, we entered the Beagle Channel and calmer waters while reflecting on this amazing voyage, the memories made, and packing for our future travels home. At the evening meeting, we enjoyed the slide show of the last 21 days of adventure and with a farewell speech from our captain, we did not say “goodbye,” rather a “see you next time.”
Our journey home across the Drake Passage was bestowed with calm seas and loads of seabirds as we threaded our way between two weather systems. Early this morning, staff member Steve and a guest were both delighted to have their first ever sighting of an Antarctic petrel! Engaging presentations today included “Understanding Sustainable Seafood”, “Killer Whale Culture”, “Nordenskjold’s Expedition”, and “A Tribute to Sir Edmund Hillary”. Then during teatime, we feasted on crepes and jam! At evening recap, we had a fun interjection by a group of guests who wrote a custom Antarctic voyage song to the tune of Jingle Bells. The staff provided the usual blend of informative tidbits, humor, and insights.
Neko Harbour was named after the whale factory ship Neko which operated along the Antarctic Peninsula in 1911-12 and again in 1923-24. The landing spot is home to gentoo penguins, skuas, snowy sheathbills and kelp gulls. There is a great walk to a viewpoint above the landing beach and a glacier near the landing site. This is also a chance to actually step foot on the continent of Antarctic! Cuverville Island is home to a wealth of breeding birds, including a large gentoo penguin colony. Whalers used it heavily as a flensing area during the 1920’s. Our landing will include a chance to hike up to a viewpoint, and to enjoy a Zodiac cruise around the icebergs in the bay. During evening recap, we had a surprise visit by a pod of killer whales. What a way to end our voyage to Antarctica!
