Such a pleasure to awaken in Killybegs (na Cealla Beaga -- Little Cells). County Donegal, to a day of blue skies and glorious sunshine! The busiest fishing port in Ireland, Killybegs harbor was filled with trawlers of the great ocean-going sort.

Among the bird watching fraternity the name Killybegs became instantly famous a few years ago when the very first Thayer's Gull recorded in Europe appeared there among the local gulls, having crossed from North America on the tail of a storm. The birders arrived in droves to see it -- and it obliged by remaining for several months.

Later we drove through a sunny landscape to Glencolmcill in the heart of Gaeltacht or Irish-speaking area. The various dwellings on show depicting country cottages in the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries indicated a very much harder way of life than is evident in the modern, neat and comfortable homes seen everywhere in Donegal nowadays.

By 3 o'clock the lines were cast off and we headed out to sea, sailing around the wild northwest corner of Ireland. Huge, high and spectacular cliffs are the first sight for those arriving at this isolated part of Ireland. Here the white-tailed sea eagle had its last nest before it was exterminated.

After dinner, we visited Tory Island, the northernmost inhabited island in Ireland. Coming to the quay, we saw what must have been every last child watching as we climbed from the Zodiacs. The King of Tory Island (an elected position) greeted us. Some walking, some birding (corn crakes were a highlight), and most of all some traditional music and dancing brought a full day to a wonderful end.