This morning, the Caledonian Starentered Spanish waters. It was a day greatly contrasting with our visits to cosmopolitan Lisbon and Oporto.

In the morning, we used Zodiacs to make our way to shore on Isla Cies National Park. Although this small island group has traces of human settlement going back to the Bronze Age, much of it remains in a natural state. Illa do Faro has a fine trail for watching birds (nesting yellow-legged gulls, linnets, robins, and blackbirds, among many others), enjoying wildflowers (bladder campion, navelwort, mullein, hogweed, and foxglove to name a very few) and taking in spectacular views along the coastline. Many of us made the trek all of the way to the lighthouse, about three miles each way, with an elevation gain of about seven hundred feet.

A short cruise brought us to the town of Bayona, delightfully situated in the Viga Valley. Walking along the old fortifications and among the many and varied shops was a fine way to enjoy the afternoon.

As we entered the harbor, we stopped to marvel at the life-size replica of the Pinta, one of the three ships to make Columbus' first voyage to the "New World." Less than half the length of the Caledonian Star, this wooden ship brought countless exclamations of wonderment. How could they do it? Where did they sleep? How big was it really?…