In the distance the pillars and shapes of icebergs become a magic city complete with straight-walled office buildings and cathedral spires. We wanted to reach out and touch this strange and mysterious world, and when we did, chinstrap penguins with their jaunty cap-straps and gentoo penguins in white earmuffs walked up to us and stared. Our flashy red jackets seemed out of place in their black-and- white world.
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