As the sun set over a placid Beagle Channel, our adventure began. Our morning was spent flying over spectacular jagged peaks cut by glaciers twelve thousand years ago. Landing at the end of the world, we embarked on a tour of Tierra del Fuego National Park. Upland geese, blackish oystercatchers, Southern beech forests and peat bogs surrounded us as we gorged on a traditional Argentinean asada.

A brief saunter around Ushuaia, a former penal colony that is now one of the fastest growing cities in Patagonia, brought us to the port and the welcome comfort of the Caledonian Star. After a friendly introduction to our naturalist staff, we progressed through the Beagle Channel, named for the famous expedition ship of Charles Darwin. Souls filled with anticipation we retired for the night dreaming of icebergs and penguins.