Nauta Caño, San Francisco, and Yucuruchi
Our day began with a sunrise exploration of the black water river of Nauta Caño. Tied up at the confluence with the sediment filled Marañon River, our first sightings were river dolphins feeding in the mocha mixing zone of the two rivers. Some of us took to the kayaks to explore a tiny side stream. The morning symphony was incredible, better than any movie soundtrack. Oropendolas with their hanging nests certainly were entertaining. Our group paddled quietly and was rewarded with many close bird sightings. A tiny Green Kingfisher allowed us to get within a few feet, while a secretive Red-and-White Spinetail passed close by. Flowers lined the banks, including some tubular morning glory vines.
After breakfast we took the skiffs deeper into the reserve. Massive fig trees lined the shore, many with a vast network of aerial roots. Giant cannonball trees were high overhead, while water hyacinths floated by. A few monkeys were seen, as well as sloths. One Three-toed Sloth was spotted very close, napping under a big Cecropia leaf. As we returned to the Delfin II, the dolphins were still feeding around the ship.
After lunch, we set out to explore a new ecosystem, terra firme. We didn’t quite need bottled oxygen here, but we did get up above the flooded areas. Here, we learned about the differences between this forest and where we were yesterday. A few lizards and frogs were spotted, and a stick insect was quite the photo subject. Returning to the river’s edge, many birds were active as the sun began to set.
We then continued on down the Marañon and turned and went up the Ucayali River, our home for the rest of the trip. After dinner we again set out, this time to explore the rain forest at night. A water snake greeted us at the stairs up the bank, followed by the eye shine of the Great Potoo. In quick succession we spotted a green iguana, sleeping squirrel monkeys, and a possum scurrying on the forest floor. Spiders, katydids, fireflies, and even cockroaches were exciting, but the memory that lingers for me is the incredible chorus of the rain forest at night.
