Rio Dorado and Atun Poza, Rio Ucayali

As we continue our voyage up the Rio Ucayali, this morning we had reached the entrance of the Rio Dorado. Once more we were out in skiffs and kayaks to explore the tributary in search of wildlife. A species of monkey we had not seen this week put in an appearance – the brown capuchin – and we were able to cut the engine of the skiff and sit and watch quietly as one individual took a fruit from a cannonball tree and smashed the tough shell on a branch to get at the soft fruit inside.

During the heat of the day we continued our journey towards our afternoon destination of Atun Poza. We learned more about the Amazon Basin as we travelled, and had the chance to participate in making lunch by learning how to prepare the local dish juanes.

On arrival at Atun Poza we headed out by skiff towards some of the large lakes that are accessible during high water. Here we found large open areas of glassy calm water reflecting the cumulus clouds building from the heat of the day. Vast mats of floating vegetation were home to a wide variety of water birds – quite different from the enclosed channels and jungle we have explored so far.

To contrast with the experience of the afternoon, after dinner we embarked upon a night skiff ride along the same channels we had travelled earlier this afternoon. A powerful spotlight was used to detect the telltale eye-shine of nocturnal animals, and we discovered that the area was home to many spectacled caiman. Most of the animals we found were young – perhaps two feet in length (60 centimetres). The caiman were not startled by the spotlight and making a close approach was possible, even to the extent that on one occasion our guide was able to reach down and capture a caiman to bring it into the skiff. Once out of the water we could fully appreciate the beauty of these animals. Flashes of lightning and rumbles of thunder sent us on our way back to the Delfin II, a fine way to end another of exploration in the Amazon.