Pahuachiro Caño & Pucate-Yanayacu Rivers, Amazon Forest, Peru

 

After boarding the Delfin II last night after dark, it was like a magic show to open our curtains this morning and see the Amazon Rainforest looking back in. We were up with the sun for our first before-breakfast outing. And we were certainly not the first people on the river this morning. As we drank our tea (or coffee) and watched the sunrise, the local residents (ribereños) were heading downriver in their very picturesque dugout canoes.

 

By 6:30 a.m. we were in our own boats (10-person skiffs) exploring the Pahuachiro Caño (or Creek) a small tributary to the Marañon River. It was well worth the early morning wake-up! In just a little over one hour we saw three-toed sloths, two groups of squirrel monkeys, numerous birds including masked crimson tanagers, oropendulas and their hanging nests, our first toucan, striated herons, wattled jacanas and many more. Equally impressive as the sights were the sounds of the rainforest waking up—the morning jungle symphony. All along the way we learned about the forest and its inhabitants from our naturalist guides.

 

After a stop back onboard for breakfast we headed out again. This time we were off to hike at a local trail known as Casual. Here we met local guides who helped us find the smaller inhabitants of the forest. Tiny poison dart frogs, giant katydids, anoles, lizards, walking sticks, and even a bat became the subjects of our photos. And after looking at all the smallest things we could find, we were then treated to the giant of the forest, a huge strangler fig.

 

During lunch we arrived at the confluence of the Pucate and Yanayacu Rivers. Where these two rivers meet is a favorite hang out for pink river dolphins, and we were not disappointed. While we finished lunch the dolphins came over for a look, giving us some great glimpses at their bulbous heads, long snouts and pink bodies!

 

Finally, even though the day had been incredibly full, we went out in the late afternoon to explore the Yanayacu River. The rain that gives this rainforest its lushness joined us for part of the ride, but that did not stop us from more discoveries. At one point we were in the middle of this varzea (flood forest), driving the skiff among the trees! Not as challenging as it sounds since this time of year the water can be more than 20 feet higher than usual. These amazing forests survive and even thrive with huge water level fluctuations. More on that later.

 

Our amazing first day wrapped up with some of the crew sharing their amazing musical talents at the end of dinner.