Riga, Latvia

“Look up,” commands our guide. Yes, look up and see history in the lines of the roof tops, the different building facades, the changes in style and architecture – twentieth century art deco here, medieval stone work over there, nineteenth century German art nouveau down the street. Our guide continues with obvious pride, “Riga is the most beautiful city in the world.”

Riga was originally settled in 1201 on the Riga River, which over time was drained and replaced with buildings. For more than 800 years, Riga has been an important center of trade, commerce, and military strategy. Today, Riga has a population of over a million people and straddles the Daugava River making it the largest of the Baltic cities.

One of our first stops on the walk was the Dome Cathedral completed in 1211. In this biggest of Baltic cathedrals, we were treated to an organ recital. The instrument was a wonder in itself. When it was constructed in 1884, from a variety of woods including linden, maple, and apple and having over 6,700 pipes, it was the largest in the world. Music of Bach, Dupré, Belmans, and Érgeles filled the cavernous cathedral and vibrated our bones and stirred our senses.

Not too long ago, Latvia was part of the Soviet Union, and life was much different then. We were shown the old, weathered KGB building and told it was, “the highest building in Riga.” “Yes, you could see Siberia from there.”

Today, the people of Riga are looking at a much brighter future as part of the European Union. No longer do they worry about a one-way trip to a very cold, desolate gulag.

Once back on board, Rodney Minott gave us an introductory lecture about Sweden, where we will be spending the next three days. The cruising weather continued to be superb – flat, calm seas. The Baltic isn’t always so gentle. And at day’s end, a gorgeous red sun dipped below the western horizon while a pink full moon rose in the east.