Tallinn, Estonia
“The new Prague,” as one colleague’s guidebook described our first port of call, may be a fitting description and catch-phrase for the younger, nightlife-loving crowds flocking to this tiny Baltic capital from all over Europe, but it no more does justice to Tallinn’s wealth of culture and history than would dubbing Paris, “the new Rome.” Such absurdly short monikers may help sell out youth hostels and euro-rail passes but are woefully inept at informing the traveler of all that Estonia’s pride and joy has to offer the unsuspecting tourist. After all, three words hardly befits a city whose entire city center has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. But then again, focusing only on Tallinn’s historic old town would certainly leave the observer keenly bereft of the port’s other attractions, not the least of which are the citizens themselves, proud nationalists who have had only a little more than a decade of independence in over 800 years.
We were first introduced to the city by our National Geographic representative and native Estonian, Priit Vesilund, just prior to our arrival this morning. He shed some light upon the ebb and flow of centuries of conquest, subjugation, and foreign rule. We learned of the crusades to rid the Baltic of its “northern heathens” by the Germans and Danes in the late 12th and early 13th centuries. Afterwards, the peasants were used as free labor under feudalism until the Swedes wrested control of the territory in the early 17th century. The Swedish proved to be more benevolent rulers and perhaps planted the seeds of independent thought with the introduction of universal education; seeds which would grow in the minds of the people for another 300 years before reaching fruition in early 1900’s. After Sweden relinquished their stake, the territory passed back and forth through the increasingly oppressive governments of Germany and Russia. Russia renounced their claim to Estonia and even signed a “permanent” recognition of its independence in 1920, but Soviet Russia ignored the treaty just a few years later and enveloped Estonia behind the iron curtain in 1940. It is a betrayal that has not been forgotten to this day, as evidenced by many of the colorfully pointed jokes tossed into our city tour by our local guides this afternoon. 50 years later, however, as the Soviet way of life suffocated in its own grip, the Estonians finally had their own country in 1991, and they’ve invited the world to come see what has been repressed and hidden from outsiders for far too long.
So when you come to Tallinn, come for the early history such as the cobblestone streets, the Gothic, 700-year-old town hall, and the medieval Great Coast Gate (pictured here) that protected the Hanseatic trading interests for so long. Come for the recent history so evident in a city remarkably removed from the stigma of communism after only a decade. Come for the culture such as the thousands-strong Festival of Song held every five years in July, including this year. Come for the vibrant, undeniably attractive people and share their surprisingly cosmopolitan taste in restaurants and nightlife. Come for the beautiful craftsmanship and artistry found throughout the city’s shops and cellars. But most of all, just come and see the city for yourself before it becomes “the old Tallinn!”
“The new Prague,” as one colleague’s guidebook described our first port of call, may be a fitting description and catch-phrase for the younger, nightlife-loving crowds flocking to this tiny Baltic capital from all over Europe, but it no more does justice to Tallinn’s wealth of culture and history than would dubbing Paris, “the new Rome.” Such absurdly short monikers may help sell out youth hostels and euro-rail passes but are woefully inept at informing the traveler of all that Estonia’s pride and joy has to offer the unsuspecting tourist. After all, three words hardly befits a city whose entire city center has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. But then again, focusing only on Tallinn’s historic old town would certainly leave the observer keenly bereft of the port’s other attractions, not the least of which are the citizens themselves, proud nationalists who have had only a little more than a decade of independence in over 800 years.
We were first introduced to the city by our National Geographic representative and native Estonian, Priit Vesilund, just prior to our arrival this morning. He shed some light upon the ebb and flow of centuries of conquest, subjugation, and foreign rule. We learned of the crusades to rid the Baltic of its “northern heathens” by the Germans and Danes in the late 12th and early 13th centuries. Afterwards, the peasants were used as free labor under feudalism until the Swedes wrested control of the territory in the early 17th century. The Swedish proved to be more benevolent rulers and perhaps planted the seeds of independent thought with the introduction of universal education; seeds which would grow in the minds of the people for another 300 years before reaching fruition in early 1900’s. After Sweden relinquished their stake, the territory passed back and forth through the increasingly oppressive governments of Germany and Russia. Russia renounced their claim to Estonia and even signed a “permanent” recognition of its independence in 1920, but Soviet Russia ignored the treaty just a few years later and enveloped Estonia behind the iron curtain in 1940. It is a betrayal that has not been forgotten to this day, as evidenced by many of the colorfully pointed jokes tossed into our city tour by our local guides this afternoon. 50 years later, however, as the Soviet way of life suffocated in its own grip, the Estonians finally had their own country in 1991, and they’ve invited the world to come see what has been repressed and hidden from outsiders for far too long.
So when you come to Tallinn, come for the early history such as the cobblestone streets, the Gothic, 700-year-old town hall, and the medieval Great Coast Gate (pictured here) that protected the Hanseatic trading interests for so long. Come for the recent history so evident in a city remarkably removed from the stigma of communism after only a decade. Come for the culture such as the thousands-strong Festival of Song held every five years in July, including this year. Come for the vibrant, undeniably attractive people and share their surprisingly cosmopolitan taste in restaurants and nightlife. Come for the beautiful craftsmanship and artistry found throughout the city’s shops and cellars. But most of all, just come and see the city for yourself before it becomes “the old Tallinn!”
