The Lofoten Islands, Norway

Today we experienced some of the best that expedition cruising has to offer. Our destination was the Lofoten Islands, an isolated archipelago extending into the Atlantic Ocean off the coast of Norway. We had planned to visit the islands yesterday, but a gale warning resulted in a hasty revision of plans. Our ever flexible and creative Expedition Leader and Captain assessed our options, delayed our arrival by 24 hours, the gale blew through and the gamble paid off. In the early hours of the morning we arrived to calm seas in the outer islands of the Lofoten archipelago.

A pre-breakfast alarm call was the invitation to a Zodiac cruise to birders’ heaven. Myriad seabirds formed rafts on the ocean and filled the skies as we headed for the island of Trenyken. Here we encountered Atlantic Puffins beyond counting, three other species of auks and numerous gulls, terns, ducks, shags and other seabirds.

But despite the many thousands of puffins and other seabirds vying for our attention it was the white-tailed eagles that stole the show. At first we could see a few singles drifting and soaring on 8 foot wingspans through the blizzards of alcids (pictured). As time went on, and we refined our search image for this magnificent predator, more and more revealed themselves perched on ledges and crags. At one stage about fifty eagles could be seen at once and there must have been more on the other side of the island. Even the most hardened non-birders could not fail to be impressed.

It was a hard act to follow, but somehow we managed it. In a country with an embarrassment of riches when it comes to scenic locations; Reine is a true gem. A Zodiac cruise before lunch gave us an insight into the livelihood of this community based around the highly productive waters of the Atlantic. In addition to the cod-stockfish industry, there was evidence of the Norwegian Minke whaling industry, with several whaling ships tied up in the scenic harbour.

The last stop of the day was in Trollfjord. This narrow sheer-sided inlet allows our skilled Captain the opportunity to demonstrate his ship handling skills, bringing the Endeavour to within an arm’s reach of the wall of the fjord. An amazing end to an extraordinary day.