Edgeøya, Svalbard

Sleep…must have sleep! Those words certainly repeated themselves in many conversations and thoughts today. Undaunted, though exhausted and exhilarated, we soldiered on through our day just off the southeast corner of Edgeøya. Walruses loafing, polar bears swimming, kayakers paddling, and Zodiacs cruising make for a busy day indeed, and we tried our best to take it all in. The heartiest of our lot may have actually succeeded.

Of course, that would have meant staying up into the early morning hours last night to see our first swimming bear at 1 am, which let’s not forget, followed a nursery pod of beluga whales at midnight. For those keeping track at home, that’s two significant groups of these beautiful marine mammals in less than a week. Throughout the night we glided amongst the pack ice and scoured the floes for any sign of more bears, and though some were seen off in the distance, nothing merited another wakeup call until a pair of walruses was spotted lounging on some sea ice just after 6am. What with Svalbard’s famously spectacular lighting, this was a photo opportunity not to be missed.

Though many of us were in serious need of nap, the conditions were simply too tempting to stay on the ship, and instead we gathered our gear and divided into groups of kayakers and cruisers in order to better explore the area’s icy flotillas. The sun shone down upon us and the wind held its breath just long enough for all of us to briefly consider with a touch of envy the life of the trappers who have made use of the small huts seen on tiny Half Moon Island. However, after spending the better part of two hours in the near freezing temperatures, we were all glad to have more than just a ramshackle hut as a retreat from the elements.

Thereafter, we hoisted our small boats, both yellow and black, and started off to the west in search of the true master of this vast realm. Sure, we’ve seen a few already in just over a day, but we still crave more. And so we continue to follow the trail and the tracks in the snow left behind by the great ice bear.